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Matterhorn East Couloir

Original Post
John Vanek · · Gardnerville, NV · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

Planning to visit Matterhorn Peak tomorrow and Sunday. Anyone know the approach conditions? About a month ago I saw somewhere that there was still a lot of snow on the trail. Thanks!

John Vanek · · Gardnerville, NV · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

My Update:

The couloir is no longer in condition; about the middle-third is scree. The approach is totally clear with the exception of a few small spots near the top of the moraine. I didn't go past the moraine.

If you have never been up the climbers trail here is some critical info!
As you top the red scree to the col, (as detailed in Chris McNamara's High Sierra book) the trail immediately flattens and you will walk into a nice little campsite. Walk through the campsite (bearing left, or up canyon) and in about 30 feet you will exit the trees surrounding the campsite. About another 80-100 feet (watch carefully!) you will see a trail turning right, up the hill. This is the trail you want to take. It is faint, but it will take you up the ridge to the lake with the good bivy spots. I met five other climbers who all missed this turn and went way up canyon; they all ended up climbing the south side of Matterhorn, not the north side which was their intention. Luckily I realized I had missed the trail before I went far; I doubled back and found the trail.

If you find yourself walking through open ground after topping out at the col, and wondering if you have walked too far, you have.
John

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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