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Matterhorn Boulder

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Bad Wolf 
Flake Direct, The 
Flake Left, The 
Flake, The 
Jewel Thief 
Mönch 
North East Arete 
Seam 
Sharp Crimps 
Side Pulls 
Sidepull Slab Variation 
Sidepulls Sit 
Slab Problems 
Treyverse 
V1 Slab 
Unsorted Routes:

Matterhorn Boulder  


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Page Views: 5,650
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: strongbad on Oct 12, 2007
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Description 

The best boulder on Mt. Lemmon. Tall, proud, and a fair number of problems in every grade. It is sharp, but quite good quality granite. It was developed by the famed boulderer Bob Murray. I hope you find this useful and let me know if I'm incorrect about anything.

Getting There 

Take the Mt. Lemmon highway to mile marker 15.8, and park in the pullout on the left. Cross the road to the east. Just left of the road-cut, take the trail to the right, heading up the little hill. The Matterhorn Boulder is the big square boulder shaped like a ship’s prow on top of the hill, 100 ft. off the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',5],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Matterhorn Boulder:
Side Pulls   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   
The Flake   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   
The Flake Left   V6 7A PG13     Boulder, 15'   
Seam   V7 7A+     Boulder   
Jewel Thief   V10 7C+     Boulder, 18'   
Browse More Classics in Matterhorn Boulder

Featured Route For Matterhorn Boulder
Matt, just before sending.

Jewel Thief V10 7C+  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Matterhorn Boulder
This is one of the hardest problems in Tucson. Start on a jug 2 feet off the ground, and go straight up to a big lunge to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Matterhorn Boulder Slideshow Add Photo
The Matterhorn boulder in the mist. Jewel Thief is...
The Matterhorn boulder in the mist. Jewel Thief is...
The Matterhorn
BETA PHOTO: The Matterhorn
Pulling late at night...Nearing the top.
Pulling late at night...Nearing the top.

Comments on Matterhorn Boulder Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 27, 2012
By jbak
Oct 15, 2007
From the master...(Bob Murray, Bouldering Beyond Campbell, early 80s):

Matterhorn Boulder

(1) A few feet left of the overhanging outside corner is an obvious flake at eye level. Go up and left. B1+ Variation: with both hands on the flake, lunge up and left to the good fingertip hold. Eliminate the good left foothold at the start. B2

(2) Start same as (1) but go up and right to a small horn. Continue up and right. B1+

(3) Similar to (2) but use a hold around the corner to reach the small horn with the left hand. B1

(4) Start just around the corner from the first three problems. Climb the overhanging corner till one is forced to move left to join (3) at the small horn. B2

(5) Start same as (4). Good holds lead up and right to a difficult crux. B1+

(6) Start about ten feet right of (4), at a small ledge near the ground. Go up and right to the righthand corner of the overhanging face. B2 (jbak's note...this is the problem Murray later refered to as "Jewel Thief".)
By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 3, 2008
In my opinion, this is the single best place to boulder in Tucson, even if it's just a single boulder. Solid rock, rad problems with tame topouts, and aesthetic lines from pretty easy to really hard. The only bummer is the lack of an easy downclimb (I generally hang from the lip of the sidepull problem and drop a couple feet onto a pad.) If you get bored here before your fingertips get thrashed you can check out the Secret Gulley, follow a faint (but well-cairned) trail onto the ridgeline to the south and drop into the left gully. There are some okay problems down there.
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2009
I wanted to scope out Matterhorn today so I rolled up there with the three little ones. There wasn't much for them to play around with on Matterhorn but my 13 year old and I had fun on the boulder just under Matterhorn as you walk in on your left.

Mostly there was a fun traverse from right to left starting at the very corner pointing toward Matterhorn. There was also some fun on the road side for my 7 and 8 year old.

Anyway, just thought I would mention that if you're heading up there with kids on tow.
By Chris Prewitt
Sep 25, 2009
Please be sure to scub off your tick marks on this boulder. This is especially true for those working the harder problems on the Jewel Thief side.
By Luke Bertelsen
Sep 28, 2009
Nice to see that Tucson bouldering has had enough of a resurgence to get people bickering at each other regarding ratings and tick marks (online no less). Remember that if you play your own game you play against yourself with your own rules and you are the only won capable of winning.

Also, any bouldering here that is "good" isn't even worth a mention compared to what you can drive to in not much time at all that is world class, yes WORLD CLASS.
By Chris Prewitt
Sep 29, 2009
True, there are many world-class bouldering destinations quite close (2-6hrs), but I can climb "good" problems here in an afternoon.
By Trey Lewis
From: Glendale, Az
Oct 5, 2009
There are only 2 world class areas anywhere close to here. One being Hueco, and the other being Queen Creek. Bishop is far away, and so are the other 3 areas(in the US) that really are world class. Not every good place is a world class. So,I don't think there are many world class areas close by.
By Luke Bertelsen
Oct 6, 2009
I realize world class could be subjective, but Queen Creek, really??

I just threw up in my mouth.
By Trey Lewis
From: Glendale, Az
Oct 6, 2009
One of the things that classifies a world class area is the amount of climbing that it holds. It may be sharp, but with approximately 10% explored I (as well as many others)count it as one of the few world class areas in the country. With a ton of great problem (talking about the bouldering) and many many more to be discovered, it counts. Just because you don't like it doesn't mean it's not world class. Queen is a GREAT area. That's right. G R E A T!!! Just my opinion.
By Dale Zinkowski
Oct 12, 2009
I appreciate the old fire in the belly that I see here on MP about Lemmon bouldering!

Trey, a question:

How many bouldering areas have you visited? Bishop, Hueco, Fontainebleu??????

In my eyes ( and fingers ) these areas would qualify as 4 star ( or world class ) areas. Mount Lemmon would probably get 1.5 stars for bouldering. Short lines, sharp, grainy granite, eliminates. NOT EVEN CLOSE to anything of quality.

Again, the passion for bouldering is cool, lets just keep it real.

One Love,
DZ

ADDED: it's quality over quantity, who cares if an area is the size of 10 football fields if the rock is crappy. 10% developed, who cares! I'd take the mushroom boulder in a field by itself over ANYTHING on the whole mountain of Lemmon.
By Trey Lewis
From: Glendale, Az
Oct 12, 2009
I have been to a bunch a areas. Hueco, JTree, Black Mt, Oak Flats, (many many times)and many others areas (going to Font next May and I AM SO EXCITED!!!). And I never said anything about Lemmon being a world class area. I agree with you on the 1.5 stars when it comes to Lemmon. I also agree about Mushroom Boulder. I would trade all of Lemmon just to have Mushroom Roof back. I was talking about Queen Creek being a World Class area. There are many 4 star problems there with and endless amount yet undiscovered. But to each their own.
By Trey Lewis
From: Glendale, Az
Oct 13, 2009
I don't think flagstaff really counts as an "area" (as in Hueco, Bishop, Font.) like we were talking about. Now don't get me Wrong I LOVE FLAG!!!!!!!!! I LOVE KELLY!!!!!! CHERRY IS SICK!!!!!!!!!!
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 13, 2009
I started a Tucson bouldering thread so we could discuss these an other issues in a more convenient an easy to follow place.

mountainproject.com/v/arizona_...
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 27, 2012
Say I got an email from a user asking I rearrange the routes on this boulder. Here is what they suggested-

Starting with North East Arete as 1, moving left to right around the boulder or in counterclockwise fashion, the problems are as follows.

1. North East Arete
2. Seam
3. Big Bad Wolf
4. Jewel Thief
5. Slab Problems
6. V1 Slab
7. Side Pulls Slab Variation
8. Side Pulls Sit
9. Treyverse
10. Side Pulls
11. Sharp Crimps
12. The Flake Left
13. The Flake Direct
14. The Flake

Does this seem accurate to the rest of you? Beautiful boulder. I would like to get the info straightened out if we can. Thanks.