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The Bond Boulders
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Bad Cop, No Donut 
Bad Lieutenant, The 
Copper Penny 
Diamonds are Forever 
Eva Las Vegas 
God, Guns, Guts 
How Deep is Ben's Love 
Live and Let Die 
Loose Man, The 
Matt Gay 
Never Say Never Again 
Reach Around Cop 
Teflon Don, The 
Wife Beater, The 

Matt Gay 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA:  Todd Gordon, Andrea Tomaszewski
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 196
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This climb lies on the left arete of the Live And Let Die Boulder and is about 40' left of that route starting off a large boulder lying against the rock.

Start off the leaning boulder and make commiting moves on crispy edges to the first bolt (optional tiny cam before the first bolt). Delicate friction with the occasional edge lead up and left to the arete proper which finishes with a curiously attached flake at the top.

The moves are fun and the rock in the middle section is quite good making this a worthy addition to the area. Two stars out of five.


4 bolts, anchors, optional pro to .4"

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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Mar 31, 2010

FA party rated this climb 5.9

By Richard Shore
Jan 30, 2013

Looks like Todd added a 5th bolt at the start - no need for the tiny cam mentioned above.