The Matilija Wall is the single largest sandstone cliff in the Central Coast, measuring nearly 350' high and 1,000' long, yet harbors only about a dozen recorded climbing routes. Pioneered by the likes of Yvon Chouinard and Tex Bossier in the 1970's, this area also saw a resurgence of activity in the early 1990's by some hardy Ojai locals. This crag has been completely neglected for at least a decade now, and I would guess that it sees 0-1 visits even on a high-traffic year. I would even venture to say that the main attraction, the Chouinard-Bossier route, has probably seen only 10 complete ascents since 1970.
The horrific uphill scramble took us ONLY 4 hours, with a majority of that time spent crawling on hands and knees beneath the low-hanging canopy of the chaparral. We approached from the vicinity of the reservoir, wasting over an hour of time trying to find our way around the lake before retreating back to the car. After choosing a different path, which included an 80' rappel off the dam, we were able to cross the river and begin ascending the steep hillside above. Veritable jungles of poison oak guarded the approach and the entire base of the cliff. If you are still intrigued at this point, contact me privately through MP for detailed approach beta. There is a much easier way to get there; unfortunately the property owners have closed public access.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Matilija Wall:
Chouinard-Bossier 5.9 R Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For Matilija Wall
Chouinard-Bossier 5.9 R CA : Central Coast : ... : Matilija Wall
The Chouinard-Bossier is a classic line that follows beautiful natural features up the left side of the Matilija Wall. Unfortunately, on closer inspection it becomes obvious that the route is replete with loose rock, carpets of lichen up to 1" thick, and poison oak growing out of the cracks. The route is more like modern-day 5.10 than 5.9, and has a particularly dangerous section on the second pitch. Either this route was in a much different condition during the FA, or these two dudes were beyon...[more] Browse More Classics in CA