||Mixed, 2 pitches, 160'
|Consensus: ||M6 [details]|
|Page Views: ||722|
|Submitted By: ||Jim Lawyer on Mar 17, 2013|
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The start (and crux) chimney of Material Girl.
This route climbs the chimney that marks the start of the summer route Cinnamon Girl, the cinnamon-colored right-facing corner high on the Lower Washbowl. It's a great mixed route, although not much ice. Make sure the turf is frozen before heading up. It's a good choice for a super cold, sunny day.
P1 M6: Up chimney past overhang 12' up (crux). Continue up chimney to where it narrows at the top, then climb out to an exposed and exciting exit. Climb up slab to the right and an excellent sheltered belay. 100'
P2 M4: Climb up chimney directly above the belay (not the offwidth above the previous pitch), then work left to finish in line of P1. 60'
The route is located on the Lower Washbowl. From the parking at the pond, walk towards the Spider's Web for several hundred feet. Locate the cinnamon-colored right-facing corner and aim for that. You should first reach Swamp Rock, then go up the left side of this and up the talus. Approach takes about 30-60 minutes depending on snow depth.
The start is difficult to miss -- a deep chimney that begins right at the ground.
Full rock rack to 3".
Jan 8, 2014
This is an awesome climb! Just did it on a super cold, sunny day. Great position, good climbing, spot-on beta. Go and do it!
By Jim Lawyer
Jan 9, 2014
Nice to see this getting attention. I think it's one of the great mixed lines of Chapel Pond. Being on the sunny side, it's one of the few options for those super cold days.
There are several additional options in this vicinity: To the right is a chimney called Twenty-nine Inch Waist; the name says it all. And to the left is Middle Earth (which is in the book).