Masterpiece 

It might be worthwhile to note that the first bolt was added a few years ago. Before that, you had to climb up quite a ways to clip the first bolt. This bold start always felt very un-Rumney-like.

This is a 4 star route until the last few moves, even if you do stem and jam. Definitely worth doing.

This is a GREAT climb. I, for one, wish the bolt had never been added to the start. Was a proud way to get aquainted with 5.10 back in the day. Had to climb up for a ways before the first bolt, indeed (seemed way runout!) but it was all on easy ground. Enormous jugs for every handhold. I am saddened by the seemingly pervading notion that all Rumney routes must be "cookie cutter" sport routes with no variance as to the commitment level. As I said, it used to be a prouder tick. Too bad. Nowadays, it's at least average for Rumney!

I don't really get the added first bolt either. It doesn't really protect much anyway particularly with a sling on it to avoid rope drag, protected great with gear if you chose and was fine as a stick clip if nervous. It would have made more sense to replace the rusty original first bolt. It is a nice route though.

Great climb, i feel anyone who can climb 5.10 should do this climb, a great route for a first 5.10.

Two bolts were added to this route, the first one and the last one. Near the first bolt there is a left facing crack, a red tri cam fits nice. Near the top another great crack for a 3 inch cam.

My first barefoot 10a (on toprope), and a great one for it! It's actually not much harder barefoot, cuz you can use your toes to "grab" some of the many horizontal ledges. The stemming moves at the top are a little more saucy too.

A fun, challenging and interesting 5.10a. I'm more of a 5.9 climber, but this 5.10a was a really great route to get on if you're progressing to 5.10s. Start from lower left to right through a light overhang section with good jugs. It gets a bit pumpy near the middle section of the overhang, so positioning your feet is important. After the overhang section, the climb isn't as difficult to figure out. Definitely going work this route next time I drop by Rumney in the future.

Peeled off the crux of this before clipping the 3rd bolt yesterday and crashed pretty hard into the wall below, injuring my foot and tailbone. Be careful, it's easy to whip around back into the wall if your belayer takes while you fall, I didn't expect the fall or the crash. Finished the route regardless, fun but tricky on the first go.

This thing is just plain awesome! The super fun, juggy, overhanging start delivers the pump that you've been looking for. The crux for me was the big reach between two jugs just below the third bolt (people about 5'5'' or so can clip the third draw before making the big move). I don't really care for the climbing past the overhang, because its pretty much just scrambling on jagged rock, and the runout to the top detracts from what would otherwise be a perfect first 5.10. If you're worried about the runout, you can have a friend who is more comfortable on the route go first and prehang a 4 foot sling off the anchors, which allows you to clip the chains from lower down in the corner. I had to hang it twice, but I will be back to send this on lead in the future :)