Master Cams vs. C4s?
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So this question very well may have been posted in the past and gotten buried under the infinitely growing pile of MP threads, but... |
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You can't go wrong with either cam but each have their strengths. Climbing in the northeast doesn't really require the higher holding power of Metolius but benefits from the extra range of Camalots. The cam angle is not that much different but is a bit steeper unlike Aliens which are very steep. C4's and X4's get their increased range mostly from the double axle. |
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Hey Dylan, i'm selling a set of lightly used master cams in their most popular sizes if you are interested. |
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I agree with John. C4s in the bigger sizes and Metolius or X4s for the smaller sizes. I have a full set of Mastercams, and I love the smaller sizes, but I find the #5 and #6 a bit floppy when working the triggers. It's not terrible, and I'm glad I have them, but if I were doing it over, I'd skip the bigger MCs and replace with C4s. Of course, if you're getting a deal on a set, that's the way to go. |
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is this a trick question? |
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Darren Mabe wrote:is this a trick question?nope. So I originally asked the question to highlight the pros and cons of the few cams that overlap, but now see there are only a few that do. The reason I'm partial to the Master Cams is because of their smaller sizes. I've been climbing trad with the gear of my good friends, and have come to realize I enjoy face climbing and fingercracks. So I guess now the conversation would be, as others have stated, the difference between MCs and X4s. |
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Dylan Randall wrote: nope. So I originally asked the question to highlight the pros and cons of the few cams that overlap, but now see there are only a few that do. The reason I'm partial to the Master Cams is because of their smaller sizes. I've been climbing trad with the gear of my good friends, and have come to realize I enjoy face climbing and fingercracks. So I guess now the conversation would be, as others have stated, the difference between MCs and X4s.I have climbed on both. Personally I own the MCs but I already had them and a set of aliens when x4s came out so I didn't really think about buying them. MCs are bomber no doubt but a few gripes I have encountered: - you need to keep them clean or they will get "sticky" and the cam action won't really work. In an ideal world, you'd clean all your cams after every use, but who does that? MCs are the only ones I've noticed getting "stuck" to the point that I couldn't retract the lobes until I cleaned it. Now I stay vigilant about cleaning them and they're fine, but it's something to consider. - they can be hard to clean (when following) sometimes. Obviously the placement plays a part here but especially when you get down to the blue MC and below range there's not as much margin between "good" and "over cammed". I've noticed MCs tend to get "stuck" to the point where you gave to really fiddle them out moreso than say aliens or x4s. - they feel less bomber in slick rock. This one might just be a personal hang up, but when climbing slick rock (e.g. Polished granite) or when the only option is a somewhat "sketchy" placement, I tend to reach for aliens over MCs. I don't really have any scientific backing for this just something I've noticed. Honestly though, if I could only have one set of small cams? Aliens. |
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Aliens |
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mountainhick wrote:Aliens+1. Especially for the Gunks and granite. |
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Dylan Randall wrote: nope. So I originally asked the question to highlight the pros and cons of the few cams that overlap, but now see there are only a few that do. The reason I'm partial to the Master Cams is because of their smaller sizes. I've been climbing trad with the gear of my good friends, and have come to realize I enjoy face climbing and fingercracks. So I guess now the conversation would be, as others have stated, the difference between MCs and X4s.You're going to be climbing mostly in the northeast which is exactly where I climb including the Gunks. As you may have noticed the Dacks have somewhat irregular cracks. There are lumps and divots inside the cracks, then there's the flaring cracks that widen as you get deeper. In the Gunks you'll find numerous pebble embedded in the rock and the infamous horizontal channel. Getting into the sweet spot amidst the pebble is at best frustrating at worst territory terrifying. This is why the Aliens rule in the Gunks. They had the greatest range in a narrow head flexible cam. Now that the X4's are out they have the greatest range. The MC's, Aliens and X4's will all work great in the easy placements but you'll have an edge when it comes to the difficult placements. This is where the Aliens and X4's will shine. The advantage Mastercams have is in holding power. Because of the lower cam angle but this is exactly what hampers the range. The X4's while having a slightly larger cam angle and slightly lower holding power of the MC's they have the greatest range of any cam. Any of these cams will work fine but if you really want to define the nuances then get the X4's or Aliens. |
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+1 for c4's .4 up |
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Gunks climber here |
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I have had Mastercams for a few years and now have some X4s as well. I have noticed that Mastercams have smaller range which can be a pain because you have to use just the right size for a given placement. On the other hand, a set of Mastercams over a given range will give you more cams to work with, so you have more cams available to you. For instance a blue and grey X4 cover a similar range to a blue, yellow and orange Mastercam. Also, the Mastercams are very light. |