Crow Hill  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  42.5145, -71.8578 Map Page Views:  45,508. Good page? (6 likes)    Submitted By:  jeremyadams on Jan 6, 2007 Make this area a Favorite What's New  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

View from the top of Crow Hill in the summer.

Description 

Located 20 minutes north of Worcester and an hour west of Boston, this crag in Leominster State Forest offers a varied concentration of traditional rock climbing routes within a reasonable drive of many Eastern and Central Massachusetts climbers. Facing east-southeast and situated on a hillside, many of Crow Hill's cracks and faces often seep longer and wetter than other New England areas. The climbing season at Crow Hill begins in March, if it's a dry winter, or as late as June, if it's a wet spring.

The cliff's faces and features are comprised of gneiss, offering a grainy texture unique from the typical Northeast trad haunts (i.e. Cathedral, Gunks). A handful of easier routes at the north and south ends (called Practice Face and End Crags, respectively) are often busy. The crag's 5.8s are among the best in The Commonwealth, including Intertwine, Tarzan, and Diagonal, but the local classic is Cromagnon, a 5.10 crack that teaches toproping newbies how to jam, and how to swing.

The Midstate Trail runs along the clifftop, and locals residents of the Fitchburg area frequently hike and scramble around the crag, so brain buckets, vigilance, and common sense are wise complements to your rack, rope, and bug dope.

A climbing permit (free) [used to be] required of each climber by the state forest to legally climb at Crow. [A climber used to] obtain this at the park HQ prior to climbing, and renew annually, by showing harnesses and ropes to a ranger. Now it is climb at your own risk.

Getting There 

From Route 2, take the Route 31 exit (west of Fitchburg) and travel south. A couple miles past the hotel and utility facility, the park headquarters appear on the right. Farther down the road, pass a pond with swimming area (comfort facilities, seasonal, $5 per car to park and swim). From the roadside pond parking area (not always open), a trail climbs perpendicular to the road, meeting the cliff base in 5 minutes.

A more reliable (typically prefered) parking situation is available about 1/4 mile further south on the right (dirt lot, aka "Climber's Lot"). From this lot, walk up the (closed to autos) gravel road about 10 minutes. From the road's terminus, a trail climbs through a break in an old stone wall to a fork, where signs offer guidance to the top of crag (via End Crags, left) or base of crag (right).

L->R of the walls 

End Crags
Green Corner
Fisherman's Wall
The Buttress
Main Face
Practice Face

Weather 

Leominster weather.

Map of Leominster Trails 

Leominster trail maps.

The Classics

Featured Route For Crow Hill

Jane 5.11a PG13  MA : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall

Jane is the obvious finger crack on the right side of the Fisherman's Wall (the tallest, and largest wall). This is one of my very favorites. Most jams are secure depending on your hand size and ability level. The crux is the obvious bulge with chockstone in the crack. Directly above the bulge/crux is a sling anchor, which most people lower from. The climb does continue to the top; however, this is not the common practice. When Jane was first freed, it is was one of the hardest pitches...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA