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Bates Boulder aka Fairy Rock Black and White Rocks Borderland State Park Easton Castle Hill College Rock Crow Hill Denrock Farley Ledge Hammond Pond Kenmore Walls aka Back Bay Fens Lynn Woods Mt. Madison Quincy Quarries Rattlesnake Rocks Redrock Rose Ledge Route 9 boulder Sanctuary, The Stage Fort Park Westport River
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DescriptionOne of the original 13 colonies of the US, Massachusetts (still a Commonwealth) is blessed with a smattering of small climbing opportunities for the local climber. While it is unlikely that any of the 60+ areas is likely to be considered a destination area, this has been a training area for plenty of New England climbers and may provide unexpected pleasures for the incidental visitor. The tallest climb is likely less than 150 ft in the state. Nonetheless, for rock climbers seeking the vertical and able to relish in small pleasures, there is climbing to be done here. There are even tidbits of ice for the knucklebasher. OrganizationsAMC. Appalachian Mountain Club/Boston Office at 5 Joy Street, Boston, MA (617.523.0636) may be a good resource for climbers. Rock areasRock areas in Massachusetts include: Atomics, Bates Boulder, Berlin Boulder, Black and White Rocks, Black Rock**, Borderland SP (Easton), Boylston Quarry, Bow Ridge Reservation (Kallenberg Quarry, Pizza & Beer Quarry), Bunyan Mountain, Cape Ann, Castle Hill (Breakheart Reservation), Castle Rock (Marblehead), Chapel Ledges, College Rock, Concord Street (Gloucester)**, Crow Hill, Denrock, Dell Ave. (Boston), Douglas State Forest, Echo Bridge**, Esoteric Boston Areas** (MIT Domes, John Hancock Tower**, Delle Ave, Northboro), Farley Ledge**, Ft. Ruckman** (Nahant), Forty Caves (Berlin), Freetown State Forest, Gloucester (Annisquam**, Arrowhead**, Bray St**, Canton**, Cavalry/Gymnasium, Dogtown, Driven Boulder**, Dykes Pond, Farm Creek Boulder, Good Harbor Beach**, Green Tavern Boulder**, Hardy Mountain, Junkey Boulder**, Klondike Reservoir**, Lost Ledges**, Meeting House Rock, Menotomy Rocks (Arlington), Mod Gripping Quarry/Atlantic Ave, Mt Ann, Mt Jacob Swamp**, Nelson Quarry**, Ravenswood, Wheeler St**), Great Barrington Area (Bung Hill**, East Mountain**, Greenwood Cliffs, Monument Mountain, & Reservoir Rocks**), Hammond Pond, Happy Valley, Hideaway, Hills State Forest, Hopkinton SP, House Rock (Weymouth), Joe’s Rock (Wrentham), Kenmore Walls aka Back Bay Fens, Langsford Pond** (Gloucester), Lookout Rock (Northbridge), Lynn Woods (Lantern Rock), Magnolia (Gloucester area) (Doliver Point, Hesperus, Mussel Point, Rafe's Chasm), Manchester (various), Marblehead (various), Melrose (various), Milford (Vietnam**), Mission Hill** (Boston), Mohawk Rock (Savoy), Mormon Hollow, Mt. Madison, Nelson, Quarry** (Gloucester), Northboro Arches**, Peabody Boulders, Peter's Hill (Sherborn), Pine Cobble, Purgatory Chasm SP**, Quincy Quarries, Rattlesnake Gutter**, Rattlesnake Rocks, Redrock, Redrock North, Rockport (boulders & quarries, Pigeon & Folly Cove, Halibut Point), Rocky Woods Reservation, Rocky Woods Rd (Taunton), Rose Ledges**, Route 9 boulder, Savin Hill (Dorcester), Stage Fort Park, Upton State Forest, Waban Arches**, Waitts Mt (Malden), Wendell Rd (Montague), West Roxbury Ledges, Westford Quarry, World's End (Hingham), Wrentham State Forest. (**known or possible access issues). Ice ClimbingBoston Rocks II describes ice in the Boston area. New England Ice describes ice in the New England area. GuidebooksBoston Rocks II covers 50+ crags and 800+ routes in Eastern Massachusetts. Get it! Boston Rocks 1987 or 1995 editions are likely difficult to find. Boston Rolls, East, and assorted guides exist for the state. Rock Climbing New England may be useful. WeatherYou can potentially use the NOAA website for information. Humidity can be high, especially in eastern Massachusetts. Crisp, sunny, fall days in Massachusetts can be amazing. GymsBoston Rock Gym Woburn, MA. Getting ThereLook way, way, way east. Boston MapBoston map. One of the weirdest things in Boston proper is that there are fewer legal parking spots than cars in this city. Go figure. PicturesPhoto samples from Boston Rocks II in the area Set 1, Set 2, Set 3. BoulderingThere is even a bouldering website for bouldering in NewEngland and specifically Massachusetts.
Featured Route For Massachusetts
Eye Opener 5.9 Massachusetts : Farley Ledge : Amphitheatre
Climbs the left facing wall on the left side of the amphitheater. Begin by starting on a short hand traverse to the arete then up to the first bolt. some slopers down low lead to great horizontals up high and a nice airy feel at the top with good holds. ...[more]
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