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Start as for Twinkletoes but continue up and right after the 1st bolt passing 3 more bolts to a ledge, then veer right past 2 more bolts to the middle ledge. Finish up the headwall (tricky crux start) past 6 bolts of great, sustained climbing. It's a real stretch lowering or rapping with a 60m rope - knot the ends or use a 70m.
The right black streak on the headwall (see photo on Middle Class page).
12 bolts to chains.