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Routes in North Face
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birthday Party T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chocolate Flakes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Community Party Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark and Long T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FRA John Wilder, Kevin Campbell, George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo |
| Page Views: | 2,000 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a good route. Much of the climbing looks difficult, but turns out to be surprisingly moderate. The short crux, on the other hand, is harder than it looks. In fact the upper part of this route (p4-5) is easier and better protected than the standard Magic Triangle route.
Pitch 1: Start about 40 feet to the left (east) of Midnight Oil. Easy rock leads to a belay ledge on the right about 60 or 80 feet up.
Pitch 2: Make a few tricky moves (5.10) right off the ledge, then continue up the crack above. After a flared slot, belay on small but good ledges.
Pitch 3: Climb the steep corner on the right and belay on the large midway ledge of the formation.
Pitch 4: Go up and left on white rock, then move back right to the varnished crack. The climbing becomes easy when the rock gets dark. Belay in the obvious alcove.
Pitch 5: Continue up the wide crack. What looks like it is going to be a horrendous offwidth turns out to be moderate face climbing.
From the final belay ledge, descend by rappeling the gully below. Four rappels (with a 60-meter rope) and a little scrambling take you to the ground.
Pitch 1: Start about 40 feet to the left (east) of Midnight Oil. Easy rock leads to a belay ledge on the right about 60 or 80 feet up.
Pitch 2: Make a few tricky moves (5.10) right off the ledge, then continue up the crack above. After a flared slot, belay on small but good ledges.
Pitch 3: Climb the steep corner on the right and belay on the large midway ledge of the formation.
Pitch 4: Go up and left on white rock, then move back right to the varnished crack. The climbing becomes easy when the rock gets dark. Belay in the obvious alcove.
Pitch 5: Continue up the wide crack. What looks like it is going to be a horrendous offwidth turns out to be moderate face climbing.
From the final belay ledge, descend by rappeling the gully below. Four rappels (with a 60-meter rope) and a little scrambling take you to the ground.
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