|563 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III|
|FA: ||FRA John Wilder, Kevin Campbell, George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005|
Looking down at the crux of Masquerade, just above...
This is a good route. Much of the climbing looks difficult, but turns out to be surprisingly moderate. The short crux, on the other hand, is harder than it looks. In fact the upper part of this route (p4-5) is easier and better protected than the standard Magic Triangle route.
Pitch 1: Start about 40 feet to the left (east) of Midnight Oil. Easy rock leads to a belay ledge on the right about 60 or 80 feet up.
Pitch 2: Make a few tricky moves (5.10) right off the ledge, then continue up the crack above. After a flared slot, belay on small but good ledges.
Pitch 3: Climb the steep corner on the right and belay on the large midway ledge of the formation.
Pitch 4: Go up and left on white rock, then move back right to the varnished crack. The climbing becomes easy when the rock gets dark. Belay in the obvious alcove.
Pitch 5: Continue up the wide crack. What looks like it is going to be a horrendous offwidth turns out to be moderate face climbing.
From the final belay ledge, descend by rappeling the gully below. Four rappels (with a 60-meter rope) and a little scrambling take you to the ground.
Std rack; we had a #6 Friend and used it a couple of times.
BETA PHOTO: Masquerade on the Magic Triangle
Halfway up pitch 2 of Masquerade
Looking down the corner on pitch 3 of Masquerade