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Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The 
Brown Palace, The 
Fool Me Twice 
Frisky Lady 
Just in Time 
Lie Detector 
Mary's Jugs 
Mary's Tricks 
Maternal Damnation 
New Direction 
Out Of Time 
Proud Mary 
Stuck In Time 
There's Something About Mary 
Violet Blue 
Wingardium Leviosa 
Unsorted Routes:

Mary's Tricks 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, May, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,353
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 12, 2008
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Megan Lewis climbing into the shadows on a final l...

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Mary's Tricks begins on the improbable flake system on the west side of Mary's Bust. A tricky start gives way to moderate climbing on a system of well-featured plates. Nice moves on solid stone. The starting flakes look as though they should be friable but in fact are very solid. Crux is early.


This is left and just uphill from the start to Proud Mary.


Eight draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos of Mary's Tricks Slideshow Add Photo
Megan, over and done.
Megan, over and done.
Megan slipping by the crux.
Megan slipping by the crux.
Megan closing down.
Megan closing down.
Brent getting through the crux on Mary's Tricks.
Brent getting through the crux on Mary's Tricks.
Me at the crux section of M's T.
Me at the crux section of M's T.
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By joell
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 29, 2008

This is a fantastic short route. Great moves at the crux come after the 2nd bolt then it backs off a good bit. Above the crux it's all big solid jugs, but don't be lulled as it is sustaining and can still pump you up finishing it out.

By John Dubya
Jun 8, 2012

So far this is my favorite route at Mary's...probably because its overhanging with mostly good holds and solid rock, which is atypical for this area full of technical and sometimes crumbly slab. Do it!