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Mary's Bust - left buttress

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Beak, The T,S 
Devil's Backbone, The S 
Sparky's Cooler  S 
Sympathy for the Devil S 

Mary's Bust - left buttress 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 29, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Current routes on Mary's Bust, left buttress.
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Construction Zone

Thanks for your patience.

This subarea will include the routes to the left of the big gully and below Moonlight Rock. The rock here is up to 400' in height. There is a slightly more traditional and adverture feeling to the climbs on this side of Mary's Bust.

Getting There 

Hike up the main access trail and go left.


A. Unknown, traditional.
B. Unknown, traditional.
C. Unknown, traditional.
D. Unknown, traditional.
E. Unknown, traditional.
F. Unknown, TR.
G. Sparky's Cooler, 7 or 10-, 4p, 310', bolts & gear.
H. The Beak, 11-, 4p, 300', bolts & gear.
I. Devil's Backbone, 11, 3p, 280', bolts & sling. P1 11-.
I1. Sympathy for the Devil, 12-, 1p var to P3 of I.

Above and right (Golden Hall):

A. Diamond Overhang, 10- PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
B. Rain on the Mountain, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.

Climbing Season

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mary's Bust - left buttress:
The Beak   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
The Devil's Backbone   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 280'   
Sympathy for the Devil   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Classics in Mary's Bust - left buttress

Featured Route For Mary's Bust - left buttress
John Langston leading the crux pitch.  This photo doesn't do justice to the fine position of the climb, but it's the best we could get.

Sympathy for the Devil 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Mary's Bust - left buttress
Sympathy for the Devil is a brilliant variant finish to The Devil's Backbone. It may be the best pitch at Mary's Bust at present.Climb the first two pitches of The Devil's Backbone (both 5.11a), but skip the last bolt at the end of the 2nd pitch and head right to a great ledge on the edge of the buttress with a hidden two-bolt anchor. Pitch 3: Start up the arete, and move onto the overhanging wall on the right. After clipping the 4th bolt (awesome 5.12a to here), yo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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