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Tea and Scrumpet 

Tea and Scrumpet 

V4

   

FA: Paul Hess 2004(?)
New Route: Yes
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 10 feet
Views: 342 page views

Submitted By: Dan Hickstein on Jan 9, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: Tea and Scrumpet traverses the face in the center ...


Description 

Taken outside, near the grassy banks of a small river, on a glorious spring day, with plenty of butter and raspberry jam, few things in life are nicer than tea and crumpets. Congruently, there are few boulder problems on the Carderock schist that can compare to the delight that is known as Tea and Scrumpet. Yet, what – you may ask – is a scrumpet? The Oxford English Dictionary defines it as "an elegantly awkward rock climbing move executed with one's genetalia an uncomfortably short distance from the rock."


Location 

This route traverses (left to right) from the front side of X-face, past Buckets of Blood Arete and onto the back wall with one important rule: you are not allowed to use any holds on or above the one inch roof on the Impossible Face (the face just left of Buckets of Blood Arete, shown in the center of the beta photo). The crux is the "scrump" move: getting both hands established on the arete. Kicking a foot across to the back wall is a harsh test of groin flexibility and may require substantial pre-game stretching.


Protection 

A bouldering mat placed near the arete saves the butt from damage, but is considered by many to be "unsporting."



Photos of Tea and Scrumpet Slideshow Add Photo
Getting intimate with the rock while executing the scrumpet move.

Getting intimate with the rock while executing the...


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By rickd
Jan 11, 2009

I'll bet that it was done at least by 1985 if not earlier. We did 100's of eliminates all over carderock in that era and I was second string compared to many other locals...

By dwight grupp
From: almont
Mar 2, 2009

Hello, I grew up going to Rock State Park. It sure is nice to see pictures of the area here on Mtn. Project..On the south side there is a great 5'7/5'8 50' climb. I had to solo it, it was great, no one was there, good time to reflect. I've been living in Colorado near a little canyon called Taylor Canyon, Harmels Rock Climbing. Check it out. And the Black Canyon is an hr away, intimidating to say the leaste, anyways being a forest hill native, it all started there for me. Cheers.

By Dan Hickstein
Jun 9, 2009

Rick, I'm not sure if it was done in the 80's: the route requires that the climber squash their genitals against the sharp arete, a technique that was not invented until 1998.