| Maryland Heights, MD |
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View of Maryland heights, looking down on a popula...
Description Maryland Heights is the tallest rock in central Maryland reaching 200 feet tall and offering much multi pitch trad climbing, some sport lines, and a few aid lines. There is very little top-roping that can be done without leading a climb first. Be sure to check out the Area Divisions Photo Mandatory Sign in To climb on Maryland Heights it is REQUIRED to sign in at the ranger’s information station it’s easy and doesn’t take long. Not signing in may result in a $150 fee. This is the only cliff in the Harpers Ferry area that one needs to sign in for. The rangers often get reports from non-climbers that someone has climbed up onto the cliff and are in trouble. So by signing in the rangers know who should be on the cliff and who should not be. The rangers ask you to sing out however if it’s after hours 5:00pm and the station is closed there is no need to worry about it. Please do sign out to keep good relations with the park when possible. The ranger’s information station is located in the historical town in WV. The station is the last building on Shenandoah street (south side), near the intersection of High street. see marker 3 on map Rock quality The Rock quality varies form excellent solid clean rock to broken and loose blocks with razor sharp edges. Most of the popular routes are fairly clean. The areas to avoid are above the sign particularly the top right section. Also The Union and Confederate Walls and the Gully seldom see climbers and will contain much loose rock, See Area Divisions Photo. Season The Climbing Season is early spring to late fall, but seldom in the peak of summer. The rock faces South West so there is morning shade for most of the cliff. However the Train Tunnel wall and Confederate walls face south and will see the sun much earlier. Also the rock is mostly black and soaks up the solar heat making temperatures 10 degrees hotter then forecast. Harpers Ferry is notorious for chiggers in the summer time. So bring bug spray and spray your shoes and socks and don’t sit down. Rappel Location The Main rappel is located on the left side of the sign and is setup for 2 rappels with a single 60m rope. The top rappel is located at the outer edge of a 6 foot wide chimney. From the top of the cliff the chimney is located on the left side below the middle overlook, when facing the town, and requires a little scrambling to get down into it. Walk out the bottom of the chimney to the face of the cliff and step down to a tree. Bolts with chains can then be found on the north wall, right side when facing the town. On the first rappel watch where you lay the rope when exiting the chimney there is a spot with a V notch that some times will snags a rope. A 60m rope is required and do be careful not to rappel off the end of the rope when reaching the 2nd set of rappel chains.
Getting There Parking around Harpers Ferry can be frustrating when arriving after 9:00am on beautiful days. The recommended parking lot is the CSX / Marc lot located off Potomac St in downtown Historical Harpers Ferry, see marker 1 on map. This lot fills up quickly. The Fee is $10 and a year pass can be purchased at the visitor center for $30. From here it is a short walk to sign in at the ranges information station, see marker 3 on map. Head across the train bridge on the pedestrian walk way to the cliff. At the bottom of the stairs for the bridge walk under the railroad and go another 60 feet walk into the dry canal and mantle the wall on the other side from a stack of rocks. Cross Sandy Hook road to access the trails to the cliff. The trails to the climb “Hard up” and all the routes left of the train tunnel is located on the right side of the old white stone building at the base of cliff. Alternative parking on the Maryland side is the trail head parking for MD heights,see marker 2 on map. Located a half mile north from the cliff on Sandy Hook / Harpers Ferry Rd. However this lot only holds about 8 cars. If you arrive later in the day it’s possible to find a spot here particularly if you wait around for 15 minutes as someone may leave. There is a self pay box located 100 feet up the trail for Maryland Heights. If everything mentioned above is filled up you will be forced to park at the visitor center and take the bus into town which also means you need to be out before 5:00 to catch the free buss back.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maryland Heights, MD:
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Featured Route For Maryland Heights, MD
The Broadcast 5.10+ MD : Harper's Ferry : ... : Union Walls
Follow an arete up and over a roof (crux one) to a pin and optional ball-nut placement. Move left to the arete (crux two) and finish up the arete to the anchors. Use the anchors; topping out this route puts you right at the overlook, and we don't need to be tempting any tourists in walking over to the loose edge.... [more] Browse More Classics in MD
View from Maryland Heights, looking down on Harper...
| Brain Roland, free climbing above anchors bare foo...
| Climbing wall. Photo: Dave Fiorucci
| Approach the wall via the railroad tracks that cro...
| Looking up the Potomac river north-west into WV. C...
| BETA PHOTO: An overview of Maryland Heights. The Sign Wall is ...
| BETA PHOTO: Marker 1: CSX / Mark Parking Marker 2: Trail Head ...
| BETA PHOTO: Maryland Heights Area divisions
| BETA PHOTO: Yellow Arrows are the main Rappel A single 60m rop...
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