Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Upper Tier of The Grotto
|
Guillotine Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Mary Poppins S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Medusa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Rolling Brownout T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
|
|
Skyline Arete, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Trail of Blood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | E.B. Rick Bradshaw, Walt Wehner, Rick Smith, and Josh Smith, F.A: Josh Smith |
| Page Views: | 1,209 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Climbing this diverse route is like doing 4, V4 or V5 or possibly harder boulder problems with good to no hands rests in between. Head up a corner (careful of the loose section, of the flake) then out left onto the slab. CRUX #1 Make a couple of moves up then a very thin traverse left across the slab to a ledge that you mantle onto. Stand there and contemplate the arete. CRUX #2 Make thin moves up the arete to a good hold out right then a couple of harder moves to a jug on the left side of the arete. Cruse a ways up the arete to a slabby section below the overhang. Clip the first bolt on the overhang and situate your body to the right of the rope otherwise you will have to work your body around it in the middle of the third crux. CRUX #3 Work up and right across the overhang on some slopey holds to a shelf on the right in a corner and some jugs. Rest here and a look at the lip of the overhang out left and wonder what is in store. Traverse left out the jug rail and clip the bolt, CRUX #4 head up with slopey holds over the lip and with progressively longer moves to a sloping shelf. Mantle up onto the shelf and wonder why the anchor is 3' out of your reach. Make a couple of long moves up just to the right of the bolt line and clip the anchors.
2 Comments