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Mary Jane Dihedral 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 700', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 338
Submitted By: Dave Schultz on Sep 5, 2012
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Description 

Start as for Orbit, but stay in the main corner system, and work the face when needed. Exit left when the corner ends, back onto Orbit and finish on the slabby summit knobs. Sustained.


Location 

Start as for Orbit.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3 inches.



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By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Apr 5, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This route deserves a bit more info.

There are three independent pitches to MJD apart form Orbit.

P1: Climb straight up from the first pitch of Orbit, after the awkward chimney. Climb up over a pumpy little overlap to an uncomfortable hanging belay. In fact, the two belays in MJD suck and are uncomfortable.

P2: Climb straight up through ever loosening rock and dirt until you reach an old bolt out left. Clip this then make tenuous, unprotected slab moves appx. 12 feet or so above the bolt to protection opportunities. Climb a couple hard overlaps to another crappy hanging belay with suspect pro.

P3: Climb straight left 10 feet of unprotected slab from the belay to a new(ish) bolt. Clip this and climb another 10 horizontal feet to a hollow flake. Climb to the top of the flake and a bunch of tat on top. Climb back right to where the MJD ends at a small roof. Make fun, well-protected moves over this roof to fun chickenhead climbing. Run the rope about 55 meters to the comfy alcove belay shared with Orbit route.

A true adventure route for the 5.9 leader!