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Martin's Fall 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: Larry S on Jun 2, 2014

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Looking back from the end of the traverse

Description 

P1. Start up some easy terrain, passing a bulge/small roof on the right and heading up to a second, larger roof, with two knifeblade pitons (Optional belay). Pass the roof on the left, Then make your way right to the corner at the top of a short slab under another large roof (slightly difficult route finding & gear). Semi-hanging belay here on medium-small gear.

P2. Move up the steep corner on good holds and good gear. Once esablished under the next (largest) roof, traverse left around the point (Note 1) and belay at the Corkscrew Cedar.

Note 1 - The point is very sharp at hand-level, where it meets the crack your hands and gear are in, be sure to run your rope UNDER the point as you round the corner, not over it or thru the crack.

Descend via double rope rap from the cedar. Very airy rappel.

Location 

about 40 feet uphill of corkscrew there is a faint trail that splits off to the left into an easy 3rd class gully. The climb starts at the end of the 3rd class, below a massive roof at the top of the cliff and a left facing dihedral.

Protection 

Pro to #2 Camalot. 2 fixed pins at mid-wall, Rap anchor (slings) on the Corkscrew Cedar. I had to work for gear and felt it was rather spaced.


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By Larry S
Jun 2, 2014

This route would probably be a challenge for a 5.6 climber, the route finding and gear between the P1 roof (at the pins) and the corner belay was difficult. I ended up stepping down a few moves to get my hands in the large crack, traversing under the slab to gain a block close to the corner, then went up the middle of the slab.

The P1 roof was IMO, the technical crux, and the corner above the belay would be a messy area to fall, though was pretty straight-forward jugs and stemming.