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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Real Hidden Valley
> Gateway Rock
Martin Quits
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 74
votes
Routes in Gateway Rock
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Broken Glass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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False Tumbling Rainbow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hands Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In The Pit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lay Back And Do It TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Martin Quits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Non-False Non-Tumbling Splitter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pit Bull Attack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Semi Tough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Jon Lonne & Dave Ohlsen, September 1976 |
| Page Views: | 2,835 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 3, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This line is described as being on Gateway Rocks, but is actually an east-facing line about half-way between the Gateway and the Tumbling Rainbow formation. This short, striking fingercrack stands alone and is obvious when viewed from most points on the south or east sides of the Valley Loop trail. Approach as for routes such as Semi Tough but continue further west to the east-facing wall.
Belay in the jumbled boulders at the base of the route and cast off upwards on good locks with good gear for the entire route. Descend via easy walkoff/down-climb to the climbers right.
If it were a full pich long, it would be a classic, but it's just too short to rave about. I guess for it's length it is great. In fact, if it were 3X as long, it would be a whole pitch! Fun none the less.
Belay in the jumbled boulders at the base of the route and cast off upwards on good locks with good gear for the entire route. Descend via easy walkoff/down-climb to the climbers right.
If it were a full pich long, it would be a classic, but it's just too short to rave about. I guess for it's length it is great. In fact, if it were 3X as long, it would be a whole pitch! Fun none the less.
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