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Martians on Mopeds 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Dave Clark 5.10 on Apr 19, 2012
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Near middle of the face, after traversing in from ...

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.9): face climb through the smooth gray rock face to the right of the large roof alcove. After a ragged start, the rock is excellent and clean. There are a few thin moves in the middle, then head left from bolt 5 to find the top anchors.

Pitch 2 (5.11c): head up to the right from the belay ledge.


Location 

This is the furthest right route in the Roof Alcove area. Start just downhill from Frankenfood and traverse into the route, or start lower and ascend 20 feet to the first bolt.


Protection 

P1: 5 bolts to double anchor shared with Frankenfood.
P2: 6 bolts to anchors.



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By Geoff U
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jan 11, 2013

1st pitch is ok, but big rope drag when traversing to anchors on left route - can add a directional as 1st bolt of second pitch to help reduce drag. Have to TR to clean pretty much. 2nd pitch is awful - very crumbly - broke a few holds, movement not fun at all. 2nd pitch on route just left (Frankenfood) is great though.