Marshfield Ledge is a large 3-pitch granite cliff reminiscent of Whitehorse Ledge in NH. The established routes range from traditional to sport. Many of the routes are slab, friction affairs, but recently some hard overhanging sport routes have been put in. The rock quality is great. Most of the routes have bolt anchors. This cliff has been a secret for years and is now starting to see consistent traffic. The views are splendid and look out over very undeveloped, wild green mountains.
The cliff is located in the town of Marshfield and is on Vermont State Forest property. From Rt 302 take 232 north. From Rt. 2 take 232 south. Turn east off 232 just north of the Kettle Pond parking lot. Follow this dirt road for 2 miles until views of the cliff appear to the north. Park by a logging road that heads toward the cliff. Hike the logging road for about 10 minutes until you turn right on to the climbers trail, which is just before a large boulder. Take this climbers trail all the way to the base of the cliff.
Browse More Classics in Marshfield Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Marshfield Ledge:
Wankers in the Kingdom WI5 M5+ A0 R Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III
Black Streak 5.9 PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Pistol Whipped 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet
Chicken Wing Slab 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Proud and Free 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Groton High Grade 5.13 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
High Grade The Hard Way 5.13+ Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Marshfield Ledge
Groton High Grade 5.13 VT : Marshfield Ledge
Peter says this is the best sport pitch in Vermont. If it wasn't so freaking hard I would agree. The route starts on good crimps at the base of a large, overhanging wall. The crimps get worse and climb sustained 5.12 to a 5.13 boulder move than 5.11 to the chains. Great endurance climbing on overhanging granite, a rarity in Vermont. ...[more] Browse More Classics in VT