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Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marshall's Madness: Marshall, Christian, & Kauffman - 1955
Crack of Dawn: McLaughlin & Janoscrat - 1980
Page Views: 8,812
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Ben leading Crack of Dawn

Description 

While Marshall's Madness and Crack of Dawn are two separate routes, by far and away the most classic way to climb them is to link one into the other and that is how they are described here.

Begin near the arete left of Triple S.

P1: Climb steep rock to a belay stance (a short pitch).

P2: Continue up the cracks and step right to the overhang. Pull this overhang via a handcrack (steep, obvious from the ground) and continue to the top. Bolted anchor.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn Slideshow Add Photo
Crack O' Dawn goodness
Crack O' Dawn goodness
Marshall's Madness on a beautiful day!
Marshall's Madness on a beautiful day!
The opening moves of the mega classic marshalls madness to Crack of Dawn.
The opening moves of the mega classic marshalls ma...
You won't be disappointed climbing on this face. Note the climber high up on Triple S.
You won't be disappointed climbing on this face. N...
Face of a Thousand Pitons...MM climbs the dark colored rock on the left side of the picture (parallel cracks), up through various crack sizes.  CoD steps right about 2/3rds of the way up and climbs the overhanging hand crack.
Face of a Thousand Pitons...MM climbs the dark col...
Ben Annibali leading Marshall's Madness 5.9 Photo by Ross Purnell
Ben Annibali leading Marshall's Madness 5.9 Photo ...
Bryan pullling up through the bulge on Crack of Dawn, 5.10, Seneca Rocks, WV.
Bryan pullling up through the bulge on Crack of Da...
starting the second pitch of marshall's madness
starting the second pitch of marshall's madness

Comments on Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of my favorite routes at Seneca. Take a few 3" cams for the superb jamming section.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Apr 4, 2007

Doing this in one long pitch is the way to go. Great climbing. Pumpy.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The FFA of Marshalls Madness was done in 1955!? Wow! Hemp ropes around the chest, hiking boots, and iron pitons. Hats off!
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

While these two climbs share the same start, Marshalls is a fun climb in its own right straight up from the belay. Both are classics!
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
May 21, 2009

Good amount of exposure up high on this one. Definately a Seneca classic, terrific line.
By BrianWS
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Wow. GREAT climb, especially as a linkup. One of the best cracks in WV for sure.
By K Baumgartner
Sep 30, 2013

A phenomenal, classic hand crack. While the slope is less vertical above the roof, it's nonetheless sustained.

A 60m rope gets you back to the belay ledge at P1.
By Kirby
From: DC
Apr 8, 2014

Really fun. If someone is climbing Triple S, ask them to take a photo of you from the top of that route. It would be magazine worthy.

I mostly just came here to say that a 70 meter barely gets you the the shelf about 5 feet up Triple S. Tie knots in your rope, but it will save the hassle of two rappels from the top of CoD.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome route that I finally got around to doing on a beautiful quiet Friday. It's a long route and drag will be noticeable towards the top. I used a DMM revolver biner on a draw below the roof which really helped. Also, a #4 C4 is very handy towards the top.

If you're toping out on this route from the anchors, be extremely careful of a couple large loose blocks right as you step up to the summit ledge.