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Stratocaster Area
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Beyond Reason S 
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Deluxe, The S 
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Footloose S 
Marshall Amp S 
Mystery Route...Will update S 
One-Eyed Jacks S 
Pablo Diablo S 
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 
Party Down S 
Purple Haze S 
Stratocaster S 
Stratocaster Direct S 
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Unknown  S 

Marshall Amp 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: B Conz, S Shelton, J Smith, P VanBetten, 1991
Season: gets sun past noon
Page Views: 3,937
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Eric, high on this incredibly fun route

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


A nice long route on mostly huge holds. Unadulterated fun. This climb starts up the second big cave/roof at the Stratocaster area and goes up and left to bypass the roof on good holds, then up a hugely huecoed face on huge holds (with a few huge moves) to reach a fixed anchor. Swain's book suggests rapping with 2 ropes, but I recall lowering off and TRing my partner with a single 70M rope.


This climb is the OBVIOUS hueco and jug system starting up the left side of the main stratocaster cave, perhaps 50M past Cut Loose and 30M past Foot Loose. a few minutes South of Running man wall. This is a bit to the left a short bit of the area's namesake climb 'Stratocaster'


10 draws.

Photos of Marshall Amp Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb nears the top of Marshall Amp (11b) on t...
Tony Bubb nears the top of Marshall Amp (11b) on t...
the tough first bolt of Marshall Amp
the tough first bolt of Marshall Amp

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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A 70m rope works nicely for this route- its so long, but really awesome. The crux is the roof section, but alot of folks will struggle at the start- there are two options, left and right. The right is a little bouldery (if you're short, stack the cheater stones to reach the first hold), the left is a hand crack problem that is probably about 5.10 or so.

edit: as of 2/11/11, this route is equipped with mussy hooks.
By vanishing spy
May 2, 2011

A 70m works well for this route. Aside from the opening move or getting over the first roof the climbing is very easy with plenty of no hand rests. Keep your game on at the end too! Most fun single pitch on the trip.
By BrianWS
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Felt way softer than any other 11b's in the area. A few jams makes the start much easier.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 3, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

If you a intimidated by the bolt spacing, bring a few .75-#2 Camalot size pieces and you can add more protection if you like. There's even a thread for a sling before the anchors. It's plenty safe and you're on easy terrain between the bolts, but there are plenty of placements that I noted along the way. Get on this thing, its fun!
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