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 ADVANCED
The Old Settler
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Black September T 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 
Complete Northwest Ridge T 
Contact Zone, The T 
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Mars Western T 
South to North Traverse T 
Standard Route T 
Totally Spurious T 
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Mars Western 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: R. Beech, D. Brayshaw, F. Webb, September 1999
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the steep 5.7 pitch from the basalt dyk...

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Description 

Begin about 100m right of the toe of the west buttress, below the SW face of the south peak, and climb steep, black-streaked corners (crux, 5.8) to reach the southern corner of a major ledge on the buttress crest. [This ledge can also be reached from the west buttress route, bypassing the 5.8 start in favor of the mid-5th climbing on the west buttress). From the ledge, trend up and right onto the south peak's southwest face, following a diagonalling route up solid slabs and cracks. Cross a prominent basalt dyke, then climb a steep pitch on enormous holds (5.7). Climb a right-trending ramp pitch, then a steep crack pitch straight up (5.6) which leads to broken 3rd class terrain below the summit.

Location 

The route is located on the SW face of the south summit. Approach and descent are as for the west buttress of that peak.

Protection 

Wired nuts and cams to 3"


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