Mars Western 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | R. Beech, D. Brayshaw, F. Webb, September 1999 |
| Season: | spring-fall |
| Submitted By: | Dru on Mar 17, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the steep 5.7 pitch from the basalt dyk...
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Gates may be closed. MORE INFO >>>
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description Begin about 100m right of the toe of the west buttress, below the SW face of the south peak, and climb steep, black-streaked corners (crux, 5.8) to reach the southern corner of a major ledge on the buttress crest. [This ledge can also be reached from the west buttress route, bypassing the 5.8 start in favor of the mid-5th climbing on the west buttress). From the ledge, trend up and right onto the south peak's southwest face, following a diagonalling route up solid slabs and cracks. Cross a prominent basalt dyke, then climb a steep pitch on enormous holds (5.7). Climb a right-trending ramp pitch, then a steep crack pitch straight up (5.6) which leads to broken 3rd class terrain below the summit.
Location The route is located on the SW face of the south summit. Approach and descent are as for the west buttress of that peak.
Protection Wired nuts and cams to 3"
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