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John's Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
? T 
Becker T 
Big House T 
Blood Clot T 
Burning Man T 
Burning Mon T 
Chocolate Hotdog T 
Corridor Crack 
Day Saver, The T 
Diagonal Crack T 
Double Dippin' T 
Fun House T 
House of Cards S 
In the Flat Field T 
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive T 
It's Bloody Solid T 
Jamminy Crackit T 
Married On Morphine T 
Rose Hips T 
Seventeen Pantomimes T 
Soul Fire T 
Steppin' Out T 
Taco Filling T 
Ultra Violets T 
Vowel Movement S 
Yellow Belly T 
Unsorted Routes:

Married On Morphine 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Pete Takeda and Jen Hanft
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 607
Submitted By: P Takeda on Jul 17, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Married on Morphine.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thin crux seam for first 20 feet with flared hand, tips. and edges lead to hand jam and good horizontal. Above is a hard fist/ow bulge leading to squeeze and finally a fixed belay. The route is lichen crusted down low--should clean up well--might get easier.

Location 

Married On Morphine takes a slightly left leaning seam and fist/ow crack on the right side of John's Wall--maybe 200 feet roughly west (climber's right) of Burning Man.

On the approach, go right after crossing the fence. See picture.

Protection 

One key fixed micro-wired. A #00 cam, some RPs and a #2 Camalot for down low. Hand/fist sized gear for the upper crack. Two #4 Camalots are nice for the upper bit.


Comments on Married On Morphine Add Comment
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By Justin Edl
Jul 18, 2009

Nice work, Pete!
By Seth Murphy
Jul 18, 2009

Looks good, Pete, nice job. Something else to add to the list....