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Marrakesh Express and New Pair of Glasses (Gunks) - contrived?
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By Charles Kinbote
From Brooklyn, NY
Mar 14, 2013
On Waimea, 5.10d

I'm interested in hearing opinions regarding these two boulder problems. What is your interpretation of them - are they eliminates/contrived?

Marrakesh - To claim a valid ascent of this problem, is the climber required to keep his hands in the higher horizontal, or is it permissible to drop down and traverse low on the deep jug horizontal that most people use for feet later in the problem?

New Pair of Glasses - Is the climber required to start this problem with both hands on the poorer holds on the overhanging face, as opposed to having the right hand on the jug around the arete? The jug can be, and often is, used as a heel hook later in the problem. Do you consider any of the holds around the arete "off"?

If you're of the opinion that these two problems are contrived, what do you reckon the grades of the uncontrived versions are?

Edit: I don't own the guidebook, and, frankly, I don't consider any guidebook author, much less IG, an absolutely authority for purposes of defining a climb. I'm interested in the community's opinion.


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By Justin Sanford
From Broadalbin, New York
Mar 15, 2013
Push-5.12C at Good Luck Lake Cliffs

Marrakesh Express is totally contrived, as described in the guidebook it forces the climber to not use the larger holds in the lower horizontal. It obviously is a more difficult climb this way, but personally I find it difficult to find any psych for outdoor boulder problems where you have to avoid the obvious better holds (I save that psych for the plastic indoors). As a guidebook author myself, I am sure that this variation was added to the guidebook because it became part of the local climbing communities circuit of problems and they wanted others to know of the variation.

New Pair of Glasses is a great problem. I recall the most difficult move being up higher when you have a small left hand edge and have to cross over your body to gain a right hand hold just before the jug. So I don't think that starting with a better right hand would have any affect on the overall difficulty of the boulder problem nor do I think that the said handhold should be "off" especially when it is used later for a heel hook. Go about it any way that you need to to top out that 20 ft boulder and enjoy the climbing!

Cheers


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By Charles Kinbote
From Brooklyn, NY
Mar 15, 2013
On Waimea, 5.10d

Thanks Justin.


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By J-Bonez
Mar 17, 2013

marrakesh - just do the dyno...its the only real line on the boulder



new pair - the 1st couple moves flow better from the "designated" start. seriously if youre not strong enough to start there, why would you even want to attempt the more committing and strenuous moves higher up? and theyre pretty good start holds for a v7 IMO - using the jug is unnecessary


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By Charles Kinbote
From Brooklyn, NY
Mar 18, 2013
On Waimea, 5.10d

J-Bonez wrote:
marrakesh - just do the dyno...its the only real line on the boulder new pair - the 1st couple moves flow better from the "designated" start. seriously if youre not strong enough to start there, why would you even want to attempt the more committing and strenuous moves higher up? and theyre pretty good start holds for a v7 IMO - using the jug is unnecessary


I was getting to the left hand move to the gaston/horizontal thingy. It's just a bit easier to use the holds around the arete to start. That's all.


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By boulderbum
From NY
Mar 18, 2013

go do loud monotone din or pubes. way better than either problem, nearby, and not contrived


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