2013 Raptor Closures Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas:
North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete.
South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Marmot Rocks are a set of boulders along the south rim drive of the Black Canyon between Painted Wall and Cedar Point Overlooks about 100 feet south of the road.
For such a small area, the rocks offer a surprising number of quality routes. The rock is generally very solid but rough. Easy routes tend to follow good crack systems while the harder ones usually steep to overhanging faces.
The routes are 10 to 20 feet, and though some get excitingly high off the ground, the landings are almost clear and level.
Park at the Painted Wall Overlook, and walk along the road until it bends to the right; look for a worn path on the left (south). Follow this short path to the boulders.
Per Brad Edwards: from Montrose, continue on US Hwy 50 about 10-12 miles to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. Head into the NP, pay the $15 (or get a National Parks Pass), and drive along the south rim for about 5-6 miles. When you arrive at Painted Wall overlook, park your car and start walking up the road around the bend in the road. There's a small footpath on the left hand side that will take you to 4 or 5 good-sized boulders on the left of the trail.
Pick up a small, free guide for the boulders at the Visitor's Center. This is a super fun spot with plenty of great cracks from fingers to OW- a good place to learn. But there's also several hard face problems in the V4-7 range.
It would be cool to hear any "back in the day" stories about this spot. Anyone know some history behind the Marmot Rocks?