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 ADVANCED
The Ranch Hand
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biscuits 'n' Gravy 
Lasso The Longhorn 
Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon 
Marmot Man 

Marmot Man 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 205'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Doug Redosh, Dave Rogers, LP?
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 29, 2013
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Dave, near the fist crack.
Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a line just to the right of Lasso The Longhorn. It may have been climbed previously. If so, let me know and I can update the name and FA info. It was visually more appealing than the first pitch of Lasso The Longhorn, and it was fairly clean.

P1. Climb a left-angling crack off a ledge above a slab on the right side of Ranch Hand Dome. The crack gets easier to protect as you go higher. Pleasant knobs keep the difficulty low. After you secure some protection in the crack below the fist crack of Lasso The Longhorn, move back right and pull the bulge to the right. Continue up lightly protected slabby face to belay at the horn, 5.7, 205'.

P2. Continue up as for Lasso The Longhorn to the top of the dome, 5.3 PG-13, 100'.

Scramble to the top of the dome to the north. Carefully find a ledge system on the right that angles down to walking terrain, 4th class.


Location 

This ascends a left-angling crack just to the right of the near-vertical face on which Lasso The Longhorn and Lonesome Dome, Angry Falcon start.


Protection 

A rack to a #3 Camalot works. Small cams are quite useful.



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By Bret Rhinesmith
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Very enjoyable route. Since I was belaying two second climbers, we did the following variation:

P1: Belay below the fist crack of Lasso the Longhorn at approximately 30 m [100 ft] near a small tree with a good crack for a three piece trad anchor. This enabled us to maintain visual contact during the first pitch.

Pitch 1 and alternate belay location.
Pitch 1 and alternate belay location.


P2: I got off route and basically got on Lasso the Longhorn starting at the fist crack. Very enjoyable, the runout was interesting. After slinging the two horns, set-up a belay near the top at a left facing outcrop (approximately 60m [200 ft]).

We then gained the top via 4th class climbing. Make sure to check out Parkview Dome via the slot below the true summit.

Descent: Near the down-climb ledge on the north side of the dome, there was a tree with a sling and locking biner (thanks to those that left this gear). Since we had two ropes, the double (60 m) ropes made for an easy rappel to the base. In the future, this is what I would do since the down-climb/4th class ledge is exposed.

Double rope (60m) rappel from top of The Ranch Hand Dome.
Double rope (60m) rappel from top of The Ranch Hand Dome.