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Devil's Slide
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Mark of the Beast 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 5,114
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Sep 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Looking down the first pitch of Mark of the Beast ...

Description 

Mark of the Beast is probably the longest, vertical, non-contrived route in the park. The route is a well-protected three-pitch slab route that climbs the right side of the Devil�s Slide. The first pitch is also known as Christine�s Variation and is a great 5.6 climb just by itself.

P1. Start at the base of a long, clean slab just left of the prominent overlap that marks the left side of the Cheap Wine Wall. Climb past seven bolts to a pair of top anchors in a shallow dish just right of the Fatman Flake. While there are a couple sections where the wall is a little steeper, there is no real crux. Fun, 5.6 climbing to the anchors.

P2. Climb up and left from the P1 anchors past the Fatman Flake. The crux is a steep smooth headwall that leads to the first bolt (5.8/5.9 range). Once past the first bolt, the angle and the climbing both ease significantly. Climb past two more bolts to a two-bolt belay on the Broadway Ledge. Short pitch.

P3. Another short pitch. Climb an easy slab up and right from the P2 anchors to a two-bolt rap station.

From the rap anchors on top of P3, rap with two ropes back to the P1 anchors near the Fatman Flake. A second two rope rappel gets you back to the ground. You could also scramble up a low angle slab and walk off the top of the dome.


Protection 

Seven quick draws and something for the two-bolt anchors at the top of each pitch. Two ropes required to rap off.



Photos of Mark of the Beast Slideshow Add Photo
Heather finding/leading the last pitch
Heather finding/leading the last pitch
Looking down the last pitch
Looking down the last pitch
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By D. Shaw
Sep 11, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Very nice slab route. If you called the crux move 9-, you'd get no argument from me. Third pitch doesn't seem worth doing.

By CalebSimpson
Oct 18, 2007

I agree, .9- is about right for that second pitch. I did this as a second around the time I first started climbing and had a hard time. I could likely go back and ace it on lead now. I never saw the bolt line for the third pitch though, so we rapped down from there.

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Nov 9, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice route. Solid 5.8 moves at the start of Pitch #2. After completing the 2nd pitch, ended up going out far right for the 2nd pitch of Dome Driver and Boston to create a fun 3rd pitch link up on MOTB.

By Ayescotty9
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great climb to introduce mult-pitch sport climbing technique with an experienced climber (if you can handle the single brief crux section that is).

By B Wilking
Aug 13, 2012

Is it possible to rap from P1 anchors to ground with one 60m rope? Or are 2 required?

By Tom Reed
From: Austin, TX
Nov 2, 2012

It is NOT possible to reach the ground from the P1 anchors with a 60m rope. You need two ropes to rapel safely. With a 60m you either go up and finish the climb or potentially traverse left and down to the anchors at the fat man flake (easier than it looks route) and rapel from there. You will just barely make it to the slab ledge left of easier than it looks. you can down climb from there (class 2/3).

By MattK
From: Baltimore, MD
Mar 2, 2013

First bolt is rather run out, as with most bolted climbs at E-rock. First pitch is relatively straightforward. I carried an alpine draw that I clipped into the second belay station (which is somewhere b/w 30-40 ft above the first belay station) and kept moving. Like others, could not find the bolt line at a certain point high on the face, so I traversed right about 25-35 ft onto the black streak. There are bolts over there, and that's how I've done the route several times now. The traverse is poorly protected, but if you got through the first pitch, the moves over to the black streak shouldn't get you feeling too queazy. Can't speak to the descent of the route. I usually top out and find the rap station to the climber's right; it's well right of Sweat, as I recall. If you explore a few of the ledges on top of the main dome and you'll find them; they're in a safe location, so if you have to down-climb something sketchy, you've done something wrong. It's possible to rap from here with a single 70m (a 60m may work, but I can't say that I've tried it) and walk back to your gear at the base of the climb.

By Taylor Journey
Apr 22, 2013

From the P1 anchors we traversed climbers right, onto a ledge system that took us to the anchors of Boston/The Kracken, which are on the face behind a tree. From here we rapped with one 70m rope, and it was the perfect length to set us down at the left side of Cheap Wine Wall. Nothing less would do it without a downclimb.

By bart cubrich 1
Feb 11, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just did this again a few days ago. The third pitch can be done with a short unprotected traverse to a line of bolts to the right. Not sure if this is the intended line, but it is a short pitch and fast way to the top. Climbing seems 4th class from the anchors at the top of pitch 3. I also noticed that the route is icy in the morning this time of year, making the first pitch feel much harder than what is supposed to be the crux on the second pitch.