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El Capitan Base Routes
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La Cosita, Left T 
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Mark of Art T 
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Party Mix T 
Peter Left T 
Peter Pan T 
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Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 
Reeds Leads T 
Sacherer Cracker T 
Salathe (pitch 1) T 
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Short But Thin T 
Simulkrime T,TR 
Slack ( center), The T 
Slack, Left, The T 
Sparkling Give-away T,S 
TRON S 
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 

Mark of Art 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Chapman, Art Higbee, 1974
Page Views: 2,283
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jan 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

The Mark of Art is an incredibly sustained 1-2" corner to the right of Sacherer Cracker. It shares the beginning (and the crux) of Sacherer Cracker, then branches to the right up the spectacular corner. You may be able to do this in one pitch from the ground, but there are convenient chains at the ledge above the 5.7 section making two pitches more desirable. Shaded in the morning and in the sun after noon.

It is possible to rappel the route with one 60M rope. It will take three rappels. First do a very short rap into the chimney above Sacherer Cracker to get to the Sacherer Cracker chains, then rap to the ledge above the 5.7 OW section, then rap to the ground. With a 70m, you can surely make it to the ground in two.

Location 

Start as for Sacherer Cracker climbing the 5.7 OW section to the ledge. Continue up the thin layback section, which is the crux of Sacherer Cracker. Shortly thereafter, move right into a left-facing corner which continues for the remainder of the pitch. Continuous and hard 5.10 laybacking will get you to the anchors.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3 inches, doubles or triples of 1-1.5 inch pieces (yellow, orange, red Metolius).


Comments on Mark of Art Add Comment
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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jan 7, 2008

I think it better to avoid liebacking and try to jamming entirer route. The prime gear for the long crux section is red aliens. 3-4 of them.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Dec 13, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree with Alexey's gear comments. This is the hardest .10d in Yosemite that I've climbed, although I linked it with Short But Thin. Maybe I should do it as its own pitch before I claim it is the hardest.
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Aug 11, 2010

fa: Art Higbee and Mark Something
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Nov 14, 2010

Definitely stout for the grade! It felt like a big step up from Catchy Corner, which is a similar sort of endurance lieback and rated 11a. Take lots of gear in the off-finger sizes since you'll probably use one of them to protect the start of Sacherer Cracker as well.
By El scorpion
Oct 1, 2012

Huge flexing block near top of route. As you near the top of the vertical stretch of the corner, the flake turns into a block -it flexed 1" on me and a bunch of dirt came out. The block is 7-10' tall, 2' wide and 2'-thick and would kill climber/belayer etc. Tread very carefully. Even though the 200' pitch is one of the very best in the entire valley, I would not test that block again.
By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A stout route. Triples is 0.4 - 0.5 C4s. The death block at near the top is pretty serious. It could easily kill a belayer if it fell. Someone should trundle it. Its kitchen table size and ready to go with some encouragement.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2013

I second the loose block. I wish I had read these comments before I got on the route. It is seriously loose and will kill your belayer as it is directly above them. It needs to go.
By benkraft
From: San Francisco, California
Mar 11, 2014

According to supertopo, the block has been loose since 2006, and has survived multiple attempted trundles.