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South Face
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A Nasty Gash T 
A Song & A Prayer T 
Crocodile Rock T 
Hot Fudge Thursday T 
Joanne of Arch T 
Jubilant Song T 
Marion's Melody T 
Slabotomy T,S 
St. Stephen T 
Thriller T 
Western Swing T 
Windy Corner T 

Marion's Melody 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: George Urioste and others
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

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Description 

Immediately to the left of Jubilant Song, there are a few bolts on the varnished face. Two pitches up this face lead to a good ledge at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a good stance at its top. The fourth pitch steps left, then climbs a corner past some protection bolts. (For many years this was the route's high-point, the result of a blizzard-induced epic retreat.) The fifth pitch goes up, then right, eventually following a small crack to to a hanging stance (on gear) beneath an overhanging headwall. Climb the short headwall (5.9), then follow easy climbing on the path of least resistance for a pitch or two to the top of the wall.

Protection 

Standard rack


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By brucelacroix
From: Portland, OR
Mar 15, 2009

P1 105', mixed, 2 bolt anchor. P2, 105', trad, 2 bolt anchor.
P3 110', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P4 30', trad, 2 bolt anchor. P5, P6, P7, not sure we took the same line as Larry.
The first 3 pitches are a good 5.7 and you can rappel from here.