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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Maria Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Turner, 1958
Page Views: 1,764
Submitted By: Mike fenice on May 31, 2006
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Tim Schafstall on the start of Maria Direct
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is a variation to Maria's first pitch that offers great 5.9 face climbing.

Start well right of Maria just below a short right-facing flake and corner that start 10' off the ground. Make bouldery moves past a tapering horizontal with a pin, into a very small right-facing corner. A few more hard moves will bring you on a welcome stance with good gear. Finish by heading into the Maria corner - there is usually a fixed-sling anchor there.


Standard rack.

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Opening Moves of Maria Direct
Opening Moves of Maria Direct
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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

For those under, say, 5'5", the initial boulder problem to the rail is a hard deadpoint. Some may say it's a 5.9 route with a hard 5.10 move.

By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 14, 2010

I found the move to the pin relatively straightforward, if reachy. Above the pin things got a little dicier ... didn't find good gear 'til the ledge. Am I missing something?

By losbill
Nov 15, 2010


By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Jul 5, 2011

I found that after clipping the pin and backing it up, your belayer needs to pay very close attention. If you fall climbing up to the next placement, you're likely to deck if the belayer has too much slack out. Aside from that, the rest of the route is pleasant and Maria was spectacular. Doing the Direct was an easy choice for me because I hate traversing. I'd recommend this route if you can keep it together through the start.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Tough for 5.9 I was already drained from prior days of climbing and hiking, so this requires a bit more than the average 9 for a couple moves. Tall people (I'm 6' 3") will reach the horizontal with the pin, everyone else has to either dyno or make a very tough (5.10-ish) balancy move to get high enough. Not the best start for a 5.6 climb.

By SethG
Mar 12, 2012

Neither a deadpoint nor a dyno is necessary. (I'm 5' 6.5".) If you're short like me, just look around, you can make a single thin move up off the ground and reach the rail.

By david berman
Mar 23, 2012

I found this a sweet climb with an exciting opening. I'm 5'4 and was able to hit the move.