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MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RMWright, Fall 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of Dumont
Page Views: 217
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 4, 2012
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Description 

MargaUgra is the pitch following MS ("F" in the main photo for the alcove). I would not ordinarily post pitches independently, but this headwall pitch is unrelated to MS in every way. It is fully bolted and very hard. At the end of May, I ripped off an oppositional vertical gaston that pushed the difficulty way up. My best guess is something in the V8 range for bouldering. The rock is very solid and the climbing well protected and pretty cool. The first three clips come in at 5.11+. Moving past clip three is the crux. Originally it had two vertical tiny gastons that were just sufficient to move up off a left heel hook. Clip 4 is off of a deep, full, hand slot. This is followed by a hard transition move into another hand slot. From there on it comes in at 5.11. For myself, this will be a project as I try to acquire the crimp strength and flexibility to get past clip 3. I'll keep working on the problem but leave it open.


Location 

This is in the middle of the alcove sector.


Protection 

Nine quickdraws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 meter rope just gets you down.



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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Mar 25, 2013

More beta notes: October 2012, ABS and I had a chance suss out more sequence on this route. Current beta looks like 5.11+ up to clipping bolt three with a heel hook in place; super hard move off a bad rt hand sloper to gain the first deep finger slot and clip 4 (presently A0 off the bolt); hard awkward 5.12 turn off the slot gains another hard move into the second finger slot; this is followed by another hard and long turn to the left gaining a crisp corner, probably for 5.12+ overall. The subsequent stand up, and a clip just before the corner system come in at 5.11+, and the final moves through the corner seemed to come in at 5.10+/5.11a. With a little more persistent effort than I have been able to give it so far, this whole route is definitely freeable with a boulder crux possibly somewhere near V7/V8(?) moving past clip 3. But it has a lot of continuity, and the mid-section stacks together several back-to-back 5.12 moves.