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Southern Comfort Wall
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Margaritaville 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,519
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Margaritaville

Description 

This route climbs crack systems to the right of Black Velvet.

P1: Start up a thin left facing corner. The crux is about 15' up where the crack thins out and you're forced onto the face to the left. Above another tricky section takes you to easier ground and a bolted belay. 90', 5.8+

P2: Climb the crack past a fixed pin to a ledge. The R&I topo showed a variation to the left at 5.8+ but we took the right hand crack, past another fixed pin, to a ramp at the right side of the Black Velvet roof. Follow this easily right to a rap anchor.


Location 

Start about 25' right of Black Velvet

We had a single 60m rope and rapped diagonally right over to a tree with a nest of old slings and then again to the ground. With two ropes you wouldn't need to stop at the tree.


Protection 

Standard rack, maybe a few extra small cams.



Photos of Margaritaville Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown climber just below the crux of Margaritaville
Unknown climber just below the crux of Margaritavi...
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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Nov 6, 2006

Instead of rappelling diagonally to the right to the tree, you can tend slightly left and you can just barely reach a belay ledge with bolt-anchors (belay ledge for the route, Wild Turkey and "Zombie").

By Karl Kiser
Dec 16, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The 5.8+ is the original rating for the first pitch and probably a bit of a sandbag. The crux moves are at the top of the first pitch where the crack stops. If one goes a little left (easy 5.9) and if one goes straight up (easy 5.10).

By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Feb 27, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We thought this route was better than Black Velvet. Sustained and elegant climbing. It felt about 5.9 to me.

By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Dec 17, 2013

Charlie Cundiff's rating on his topo is 5.9+. I'd say the crux (going straight up, I didn't see another way) is about a point harder than anything you will find on Black Velvet. It is possible to avoid it by starting one corner farther to the right, but then you will have a small roof to content with. It is still somewhat easier though, and more protectable.