Mardi Gras 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Chris Miller & Lisa Guindon, 2005 |
| Submitted By: | Bill Olszewski on Jun 23, 2009 |
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Mike rapping off Mardi Gras.
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Description Mardi Gras starts on the right side of the wall, next to a wide, right-slanting crack. Head straight up to the bulging overlap. Pull the bulge and continue up and right on solid holds, sometimes jugs, sometimes thin. Balance and footwork is the key. At the smooth patina face, find a few key holds and crank through. Finish up and left over soft knobs and dishes (what I considered to be the crux) to reach the anchor. Rappel to descend.
Location East face, next to last bolt line on the right.
Protection 6 bolts, bolted anchor
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for Katrina Wall (East Face), Holcomb V...
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 23, 2009
| Chris – I’ve climbed a lot of your routes over the years. Good stuff. Mardi Gras is by far my favorite and the best easy .10 in Holcomb, imho. Thanks man!
Edit: I was telling Mike that day that you would take away a star and downgrade the route - I knew it! ha ha but really, 5.9? I was thinking .10a ... |
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.9
| All three routes on the main face were rated 5.9 since they felt about the same.
Pistol Pete, Ricochet and Vertical Epic seem better as they're longer and more continuous in nature. |
By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Jul 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b
| Chris....seriously, 5.9?? The obvious crux is passing the 3rd bolt while pulling moves into the .10a/b range. Been on Richochet and a few others of yours. I'll stick with .10a/b on this one.
Nice route dood! |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| I like this climb. The crux is moving up to and through the 3rd bolt, and if you're shorter the crux will be more committing. In the middle it eases quite a bit, but Chris M had the good taste to add a longer runout, which spices things up, especially if you're pumped from the crux. The finishing moves, stepping right and hauling up big jugs is a blast - don't relax though, as the final slabby bit will really grab your attention, and make you switch gears. |
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