This route starts with a bouldery finger-crack, but once you get off the ground, eases up substantially until the upper crux. Pull the low-roof, then up to a hueco, move right until you gain the finger-crack that runs to the top. The crux is a short section near the top, where the crack tapers out and a few thin moves are rewarded by a solid hand-jam.
This route is located in between the popular 'Beginner's Only' and 'Where Real Men Dare'. Obvious finger crack that starts at a low roof (the bouldery start).
Excellent pro, mostly small-to-mid cams and/or nuts. Shuts at top.
|By Jeffrey Gagliano|
From: Pennsburg, PA
Jun 27, 2010
Lead this today. Very hard start!!! Gear at the crux is good, though I got a piece (#6 stopper) in at the top of the crux, but it was very difficult to place and realy not necessary for safety reasons...but when you're on lead...well you know. Otherwise the route went well. A small lump for the right foot makes the crux crank into the secure jam possible. Miss that, and you may miss the on-sight.
|By Matt Glue|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2011
I had to run it out going past the hueco. Easy terrain, but would have been a nasty pendulum, ending < 10 feet from the deck. Maybe I missed something, or maybe I should have climbed straight up and off-route for some pro, or maybe that's just the New. :)
Fun route though! The start crux is burly and the end crux is tricky, but both are well-protected.
Aug 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bring a few small TCUs or C3s to protect the moves transitioning from the hueco to the crack/seam. Super fun climbing, great gear, and a thought provoking crux.
|By Chris Whisenhunt|
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 4, 2013
Comparing this thing to the likes of maybe Rapscallions Blues and you will think this is no harder 5.10a.