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Maple Canyon

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Maple Canyon 


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Location: 39.5564, -111.6867 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Harvey Miller on May 4, 2004
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More turkeys at Maple...

Description 

"Cobble climbing"Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock with embedded, rounded clasts ranging in size from pebbles to boulders.

The walls have a wide range of holds from bombers to slopers, making the climbing unique and challenging. Mostly sport climbing with a very little trad.

Camping is available in Maple Canyon for $8 per night. Maple lies mostly on public land within the Uinta National Forest, but some of the most popular climbs are in privately-owned Box Canyon. There is a day use fee of $3 per car in the national forest area.

Nearest beer is in Nephi.


Getting There 

Exit 225 on I-I5 (Nephi 100 N exit). East on UT Route 132 to Fountain Green. Right on 400 South. Six miles to Freedom Road, turn right. Right again on Maple Canyon Road. Follow the paved road to the dirt.


421 Total Routes


['4 Stars',33],['3 Stars',164],['2 Stars',163],['1 Star',45],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',18],['5.7',23],['5.8',26],['5.9',34],['5.10',72],['5.11',83],['5.12',89],['5.13',28],['>=5.14',5],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maple Canyon:
Tachycardia   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Heart Rock Area : Heart Rock
The Great Chasm   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Middle Fork : The Great Chasm
Minienticer   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
Zen Fen   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Right Fork : Zen Garden
Exit Wound   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 160'   Right Fork : Haji Rock
Meet the Buddha   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 60'   Right Fork : Zen Garden
Big Kahuna   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 30'   Maple Canyon Road : Schoolroom Area
The Hitchhiker   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall
Dry Spunk   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 85'   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
Groundwork   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 80'   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
The Angry Inch   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Left Fork : The Pipeline
Pipeline   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Left Fork : The Pipeline
49   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
Zoaster Toaster   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
Lunchables   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Right Fork : The Minimum Crag
Deliverance   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
Orgasmo   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 90'   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
Cobble in the Sky   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Box Canyon : The Arch
Sprout   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 90'   Right Fork : The Pipe Dream
Loser   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 70'   Box Canyon : Cobble Roof
Browse More Classics in Maple Canyon

Featured Route For Maple Canyon
clay approaching 3rd bolt

Pipeline 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Pipeline
A well traveled hard 11. The crux is near the roof but you're saved by well placed pocket. The whole climb is in your face and awesome....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Maple Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Mmmm... Maple, Ken Trout on the cobbles.
Mmmm... Maple, Ken Trout on the cobbles.
Looking down toward the Pipline area!
Looking down toward the Pipline area!
Fall colors at the Orangutan Wall
Fall colors at the Orangutan Wall
word.
word.
If all the numbered sites are taken -- site "F" might be free
BETA PHOTO: If all the numbered sites are taken -- site "F" mi...
The bend in the road!
The bend in the road!
Pipeline
Pipeline
sick
sick
maple canyon
maple canyon
Searching for the next hold (and bolt!) among the cobbles...ENDURANCE is the name of the game at Maple Canyon.
Searching for the next hold (and bolt!) among the ...
Fall colors
Fall colors
the margharita roof is a bouldering cave just around the corner from the pipedream.  nice for both the boulderer and sport climber looking to enjoy more of maple
the margharita roof is a bouldering cave just arou...
Cobble admiration
Cobble admiration
Main road and campground
BETA PHOTO: Main road and campground
This is the top of the Orangutan wall 5.10b
BETA PHOTO: This is the top of the Orangutan wall 5.10b
I think this is Rock Island
I think this is Rock Island
Maples turning color in fall
Maples turning color in fall
Say hello to the turkeys!
Say hello to the turkeys!
Trick-or-Treating in Fountain Green at the City Park. Everyone drives there and lines up along one street and you just go from car to car in an orderly line, very efficient, and you would not want the kids to over exert themselves to get candy...
Trick-or-Treating in Fountain Green at the City Pa...
does anybody have information about this route just outside (west) of box canyon ... near a fire pit maybe 12b ?
does anybody have information about this route jus...
Pipedream
Pipedream
Comments on Maple Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2012
By Bryson Slothower
May 19, 2006

what's the ideal season at Maple?

By Chris Archer
Jun 27, 2006

Early May through mid October is the season. April is climbable if you don't mind postholing.

By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Jul 6, 2006

good guide here

www.drtopo.com

www.drtopo.com/utah/maple.pdf

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Sep 11, 2006

Anyone have anything on the oxygen wall or the demascus wall?

By Rick Miske
From: Orem, UT
Nov 11, 2007

According to the Forest Service and ReserveAmerica, the Campground Host is there only every three days or so. Last time I was there the pay envelopes were all gone and the pay tube was empty.

The group site is nice.

By courtney.vogt
From: Denver, Colorado
Feb 8, 2008

is Maple Canyon "dog-friendly"? I saw something about Box Canyon being off limit to dogs because it's privately owned. How about the other areas?

and in response to mw: i would expect a 7 hour trip from Rifle to Maple. I know it takes 8 from Summit County, CO.

By Ben Folsom
Feb 8, 2008

Yes, Maple canyon is dog friendly, other than the Box canyon which is private property. My dog really likes it there, but I guess he likes everywhere we go!

By DaveB
Apr 1, 2008

Why are there so many flies here? (Not biting, just annoying house/sh*t flies...) Do they migrate up into the canyon from the turkey farms? Seasonal? (We were there a couple days in August.)

By Sean Egli
From: Provo Utah
May 18, 2008

Anyone know where some moderate climbing routes up Maple Canyon are?Away from Box Canyon?Around 5.6 to 5.10 A-C?Last time I went I got spanked and I'm desperately in need for a good day of fun climbing.Is the gate open yet also?

By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Jun 20, 2008

Maple in July? Too hot? I was there at the end of last June. The temps outside the canyon were in the 90s-low 100s. Inside the canyon was quite nice in the shade. Can I expect the same?

By jason gerrard
From: springville, utah
Mar 23, 2009

i was working a climb up the left hand fork that i can't find in any books or on this site. i think it is one of the last climbs up that fork. it is on the left hand side, on a wall that is way overhung. does anybody know what the climb farthest to the right is rated?

By Thayne aka TR
From: provo utah
May 10, 2009

We just got back from maple (family trip) It was really busy in the school room all ready.

Climbing was great and it was super warm in the day (pretty cold at night still, bring your own wood) the climbing was great and it could not have been better, we met nic, nicole, jimmy and crystal and they are some super climbers. We cooked them dinner (Cheeseburgers) and had smores for desert! We spent all day in the school room as my sons love to climb and bolder I can't wait to get back down there for some more climbing and boldering!

I noticed a lot of trash around bouldering area's lets all try to pack in more then we bring in and please please don't leave bananna peels or apple cores.

LEAVE NO TRACE!!!

By Nathan Van Horn
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 16, 2009

no banana peels or apple cores????? are they not from the earth? should they not return to the earth? And i don't mean in a plastic bag......

By Lauren D. Hollingsworth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 8, 2009

Just got back from a trip to Maple. My husband and I ate at Roy's Pizza in Ephraim on a rest day and WOW! I was really impressed by this small-town pizza joint. The ingredients were fresh with a homemade taste. $15-20 for a large pizza, on the left side of HWY 89 coming from the canyon.

By the way: beware of the squirrels both at the crag and the campground. They will run off with your food, tear up bags containing food, and they are capable of chewing through plastic peanut butter jars.

By Rossy B.
Sep 23, 2009

If this is on National Forest land, shouldn't there be some free camping somewhere? So where is this free camping?

By mike cork
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 13, 2009

Hey - a buddy and I are headed out this way in a week and plan to do a day or two at Maple Canyon. A few first timer questions:

1) given our limited time, what 2 or 3 crags would be ideal to check out this time of year for the 5.11-5.12 climber? Anything that gets decent sun?

2) any recommended lodging in the area? we'll be flying into SLC in the evening and need a place to stay semi-near Maple.

3) food/drink...any nearby joints that we should check out? From Maple we're headed SE to do some tower climbing.

4) if you're a local and plan to be in the area, it'd be cool to meet up for a day of craggin...

Thanks,
Mike

By Deibolt
From: Bolder, CO
Nov 16, 2009

When do the gates close for the season? I thought I read some where that they close around this time.
Im temporarily living in SLC for 3 weeks (now into first week of DEC). If anyone wants to brave some colder temps and climb in Maple I am down, whenever, and willing to drive.

By Brian in SLC
Nov 16, 2009

There are no gates.

What shuts the place down for non-4wd vehicles (which should also apply to subarus, but, folks don't learn) is snow.

So, no snow, easy drive in.

Nearby lodging? Try Nephi or Ephraim. Most folks camp in Maple Canyon.

For dining, there's some diners in both of the above. Pretty limited.

By Michelle Ellington
Feb 14, 2010

We found this house in Fountain Green to rent. Kitchen, living room w/TV & DVD, sleeps 6-8, super cozy, and close to the canyon. Rates change mid-June but split 6 ways it's between $14-$23/night. With camping now at $8/night, this is a great option. Owners are awesome!

www.redapplecottage.com/

By Blake Cash
Apr 13, 2010

What's the seep situation? Planning on being there first part of May for a week. Should be good by then, no?

By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
May 6, 2010

Electronic version of the "old" Maple Canyon guides available here:

greatbasinseeds.com/page--Maple+Canyon--ste_maplecanyon.html

By dnoB ekiM
May 12, 2010

Thanks Jason! Glad to have this...been waiting on the DK guide for like 5 years now...I think it is a myth!

By MattH31
From: SLC, Utah
Jun 10, 2010

Does anyone know what the deal is with the fixed rope on the far left side of the Pipe Dream? It doesn't look like anything is being developed there. It's kind of an eyesore.

I really haven't given anything back to the Utah climbing community, so feel free to rip me to shreds.

By Blitzo
Jul 29, 2010

I can't wait to see this place!

By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
Mar 8, 2011

Hey, the link to the downloadable version of the "old" guide changed over the winter. The new link is:

greatbasinseeds.com/cms-display/ste_maplecanyon.html

Thanks!

Jason

By josh holmes
May 15, 2011

Just an FYI the link posted above does not work.

By John Fodor
From: Bolder, Co
Jun 26, 2011

Where is a good place to camp around maple Canyon when the campground is full?

Thanks

By North123
Jun 27, 2011

Does anyone know of an alternative camping spot for when the maple campground is full or if there are any rentals available in town over the fourth of july weekend? Or if anyone has extra space at their site, my partner and I would be happy to pay the camping fee. Thanks.

By jeffozozo
From: huntsville, utah
Jul 12, 2011

This is a nice map that shows you the area overview:

sanpete.com/downloads/Maple_Canyon_Map.pdf

By Eric Godfrey
From: slc, ut
Jul 25, 2011

It would be awesome if someone could sort the routes left to right now that it's an option. I'd do it myself but apparently you need administrator privileges or something? It won't let me.

By Eckhard
From: Denver, CO
Sep 26, 2011

we tried to buy the printable guide. After payment it never sent us to a printing feature, still haven't checked to see if we were actually charged for the guide. Seems like everybody there was showing up with some version of MP's printable guide.

By Blake M
Oct 10, 2011

Would maple be climbable over thanksgiving?

By Jared R
Jun 25, 2012

Is Maple canyon closed due to the Wood Hollow fire?

By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 26, 2012

Yeah, was thinking the same thing. Anybody in the know about the fire?

By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jun 28, 2012

The Wood Hollow fire is in the area but does not appear to be threatening Maple Canyon right now:

Utah Fire Info
Wood Hollow perimeter map

By dhunsworth
From: Durango, co
Jul 11, 2012

I'm planning a trip out here this fall. What would be the best couple of weeks to aim for to get the maples at their peak for fall colors?
thanks
Dehn

By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jul 11, 2012

@dhunsworth, It seems like the colors in Maple are often brightest during the second and third week's of September. Watch the weather though because rainstorms are not unheard of during that time.

By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
Sep 3, 2012

Hey everyone...we moved the climbing shop to main street and really improved the place. Drop in and see us on your next maple trip.

"Like" us on facebook at:

www.facebook.com/pipedreamadventuresports

Pipe Dream Adventure Sports
327 South Min
Ephraim, UT 84627
435.283.4644