"Cobble climbing"—Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock with embedded, rounded clasts ranging in size from pebbles to boulders.
The walls have a wide range of holds from bombers to slopers, making the climbing unique and challenging. Mostly sport climbing with a very little trad.
Camping is available in Maple Canyon for $8 per night. Maple lies mostly on public land within the Uinta National Forest, but some of the most popular climbs are in privately-owned Box Canyon. There is a day use fee of $3 per car in the national forest area.
Exit 225 on I-I5 (Nephi 100 N exit). East on UT Route 132 to Fountain Green. Right on 400 South. Six miles to Freedom Road, turn right. Right again on Maple Canyon Road. Follow the paved road to the dirt.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maple Canyon:
This route starts on two large holds about 35 feet from the right side of the Pipe Dream cave proper. Twenty feet of slightly pumpy 5.11 climbing brings you to the base of the massive roof. From here every move is about V3, and the hard part is dealing with the crippling pump that grows with every bolt you pass. If you make it to the lip of the cave, rest up, and endure another 25 feet of 5.11+ endurance climbing.Unfortunately, due to the nature of the rock, and some aggressive cleaning tacti...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
According to the Forest Service and ReserveAmerica, the Campground Host is there only every three days or so. Last time I was there the pay envelopes were all gone and the pay tube was empty.
Yes, Maple canyon is dog friendly, other than the Box canyon which is private property. My dog really likes it there, but I guess he likes everywhere we go!
Why are there so many flies here? (Not biting, just annoying house/sh*t flies...) Do they migrate up into the canyon from the turkey farms? Seasonal? (We were there a couple days in August.)
Anyone know where some moderate climbing routes up Maple Canyon are?Away from Box Canyon?Around 5.6 to 5.10 A-C?Last time I went I got spanked and I'm desperately in need for a good day of fun climbing.Is the gate open yet also?
Maple in July? Too hot? I was there at the end of last June. The temps outside the canyon were in the 90s-low 100s. Inside the canyon was quite nice in the shade. Can I expect the same?
By jason gerrard From: springville, utah Mar 23, 2009
i was working a climb up the left hand fork that i can't find in any books or on this site. i think it is one of the last climbs up that fork. it is on the left hand side, on a wall that is way overhung. does anybody know what the climb farthest to the right is rated?
We just got back from maple (family trip) It was really busy in the school room all ready.
Climbing was great and it was super warm in the day (pretty cold at night still, bring your own wood) the climbing was great and it could not have been better, we met nic, nicole, jimmy and crystal and they are some super climbers. We cooked them dinner (Cheeseburgers) and had smores for desert! We spent all day in the school room as my sons love to climb and bolder I can't wait to get back down there for some more climbing and boldering!
I noticed a lot of trash around bouldering area's lets all try to pack in more then we bring in and please please don't leave bananna peels or apple cores.
Just got back from a trip to Maple. My husband and I ate at Roy's Pizza in Ephraim on a rest day and WOW! I was really impressed by this small-town pizza joint. The ingredients were fresh with a homemade taste. $15-20 for a large pizza, on the left side of HWY 89 coming from the canyon.
By the way: beware of the squirrels both at the crag and the campground. They will run off with your food, tear up bags containing food, and they are capable of chewing through plastic peanut butter jars.
When do the gates close for the season? I thought I read some where that they close around this time. Im temporarily living in SLC for 3 weeks (now into first week of DEC). If anyone wants to brave some colder temps and climb in Maple I am down, whenever, and willing to drive.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 16, 2009
There are no gates.
What shuts the place down for non-4wd vehicles (which should also apply to subarus, but, folks don't learn) is snow.
So, no snow, easy drive in.
Nearby lodging? Try Nephi or Ephraim. Most folks camp in Maple Canyon.
For dining, there's some diners in both of the above. Pretty limited.
We found this house in Fountain Green to rent. Kitchen, living room w/TV & DVD, sleeps 6-8, super cozy, and close to the canyon. Rates change mid-June but split 6 ways it's between $14-$23/night. With camping now at $8/night, this is a great option. Owners are awesome!
Does anyone know what the deal is with the fixed rope on the far left side of the Pipe Dream? It doesn't look like anything is being developed there. It's kind of an eyesore.
I really haven't given anything back to the Utah climbing community, so feel free to rip me to shreds.
Does anyone know of an alternative camping spot for when the maple campground is full or if there are any rentals available in town over the fourth of july weekend? Or if anyone has extra space at their site, my partner and I would be happy to pay the camping fee. Thanks.
It would be awesome if someone could sort the routes left to right now that it's an option. I'd do it myself but apparently you need administrator privileges or something? It won't let me.
we tried to buy the printable guide. After payment it never sent us to a printing feature, still haven't checked to see if we were actually charged for the guide. Seems like everybody there was showing up with some version of MP's printable guide.
I'm planning a trip out here this fall. What would be the best couple of weeks to aim for to get the maples at their peak for fall colors? thanks Dehn
By John Ross From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 11, 2012
@dhunsworth, It seems like the colors in Maple are often brightest during the second and third week's of September. Watch the weather though because rainstorms are not unheard of during that time.
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