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San Ysidro
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Many Happy Returns T,TR 
Orangahang T,TR 
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Many Happy Returns 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mosher, Dixon
Page Views: 2,328
Submitted By: EricT on Feb 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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"Many Happy Returns" boasts unusually st...

Description 

Left of Orangahang is a lone bolt in the middle of the slab. Climb past and then head right towards the bolt and lieback. After liebacking the detached block, climb weird fingerlocks up the slab to the nice ledge. The route finishes just right of the 3rd class gully.

Protection 

Like much of San Ysidro, the route is mixed, with bolts and trad placements. Down low, the route is a bit run out, but can be protected. Bolted anchors at the top.

Update: The Many Happy Returns rap-anchor was replaced in April, 2006. Two Rawl-style expansion bolts of unknown age were removed. One 1/2" Rawl-style five-piece expansion bolt and one Fixe 3/8" double-wedge expansion bolt were placed with stainless steel rappel rings.


Photos of Many Happy Returns Slideshow Add Photo
Another view of the steep and juggy middle-section...
Another view of the steep and juggy middle-section...
i took a friend climbing outside for his first tim...
i took a friend climbing outside for his first tim...

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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

On the upper half of the route, I stem between the crack and various holds out left. This feels a couple of grades easier than the aforementioned "weird fingerlocks."
By Evan1984
Jul 5, 2009

This is a great route and probably one of my local favorites!

The crux for me is the slabby part from the first bolt to the stance to clip the second. The physical crux is probably the steep face/lieback part from the 2nd bolt to the nice ledge.

A light rack will do. A .75 and a 1 BD camalot protect the lieback well. I don't recall using any other pro, but its been a while since I've done this one.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Don't know much about local ratings but this is an east coast 5.8.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 14, 2009

...and a Yosemite 5.7
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 13, 2013

Always went straight up to [what I know now] is the second bolt. The slab just past the first bolt is definitely 5.9.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jun 13, 2015

as of 6/13/2015, this set of higher rap anchor shared by Orangahang has oddly only one rap ring on the right side bolt. no ring or chain on the bare left bolt
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 14, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Someone keeps swiping the rap-hangers. There's also one missing from atop Peels. I'm done replacing them...
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jun 15, 2015

as of 6/13, the arete rap anchor atop Peels is fully equipped with both rap links/rings. it was only bec this anchor atop MHR was missing a rap ring that i rapped down the arete with a 60. if i had one of my many quicklinks at home with me at the time, would've put one onto the bare bolt, to help out. thanks for doing what you could for the place over the years. it's a nice convenient spot
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