Mantis   5.7 A3

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 180 feet Consensus:  5.7 A3 [details] FA:  Duane Raleigh, Pete Takeda, summer 1993 Submitted By:  USBRIT on Dec 24, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route.

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Description 

Mantis is located in the next major right (east) of The Fortress and Turkey Neck Tower. The route is obvious on the west face of the tower. Pete Takeda: "A wedge of mud, the Mantis is a thin rib of claycrested by a precarious series of isolated blocks. The blocks, perched on raised clay mounds, resemble bug eyes, lending an insect appearance. The 180' formation is split clean through by a crack".

Location 

This is on Things of Beauty (a.k.a I-70 Towers), Palisade.

Protection 

Camalots (2) #3 through #4, pitons (5) 1/14 through 2": Bong-bongs through 4" (10-15), Spectres; 0.5" hangers.

Descent. There are no summit anchors. Lower off the backside. Pete Takeda: "To descend, Duane tied the haul line to the lead rope and rappelled off the opposite side using my body as a counterweight. To clean, I jumared the lead rope using his body as an anchor, and, for fear of being slingshotted off the tower, didn't dare peek over the summit ridge".