Mantel Variation 5.9
| 1,193 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on May 24, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Mantle Variation
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing. Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access. In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climb the ledged face, past the three bolts. If you can climb this climb, then you can mantel. Very enjoyable, just short.
Protection Slings are around the tree at the top, but bring your own just in case. 3 draws for the climb.
| Comments on Mantel Variation |
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By triznuty From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 23, 2005 rating: 5.9
| Great var. start to schoolroom west. It adds some spice. Very good mantels. |
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 19, 2006
| Route in the photo does look like the Mantle Variation. Someone added several bolts to this route. Was an established line without the bolts. Seem to recall that a bunch of folks (me included in '85) had led it sans bolts. Sorta surprised it hasn't been chopped, but, have to admit last time I led it, I clipped them darn things...ha ha. I think there was also a variation that used a piton way out to the right as well (long gone by now). But, I seem to recall most folks used the line protected by the bolts. Described in several guidebooks prior to the bolts being added. -Brian in SLC |
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 20, 2006
| The mantle variation was in Desperate Grace in 1975, Wasatch Granite in 1977 and Wasatch Rock Climbs in 1984. As well as the latest Ruckman guide. Was perhaps more clearly stated as following the water streak in those earlier guides. As also mentioned that folks more commonly top roped it, but, after talking with a couple of the old guard (guidebook authors), I'm sure it was led way back in the day. No question in my, or the guidebook authors' minds that the bolts are ON the mantle variation. There just isn't any other mantle-esque terrain around there, and, its a natural line. Commonly done as a alternate start to schoolroom, or, a TR. |
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT May 23, 2007
| The picture I posted under my profile is of one of the guidebook authors...on the route. And, DT concurred as well (we sat at the base of the route and discussed all the bolts). I believe every bolt below where the standard Schoolroom route traverses across is on what is/was known as the mantle variation. The bolt line follows the natural weaknesses. Same route I lead ground up on site in the mid 80's (and was commonly done prior). I'm not saying that the bolts should be yanked. I clipped the darn things last time I led it, for sure. I guess my days of soloing that type of terrain are gone... Its a fun variation and a neat way to start schoolroom. |
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 12, 2007
| No way, that guy's a hack. Pretty sure Pete C, BS, etc etc had lead it prior to '85. I recall many folks that knew it'd been led sans bolts prior to '85. I'll bet a whole slug of folks led it back in the day. 70's at least. Given the Lowe clan floatin' around, etc, wouldn't be surprised if it was done in the 60's. |
By triznuty From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 15, 2007 rating: 5.9
| If you have a hard time getting Dennis Turville's number, I could probably get it.. |
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