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Routes in Forming Arch
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Looming T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Manta Ray T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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N'Jadaka (aka Killmonger) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Stingray T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unnamed OW T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wakanda Forever T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | FA Jay Smith, FFA Jacob Warren |
| Page Views: | 954 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | jakobi on May 19, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Jay Smith has an uncanny ability to find some of the best lines in the desert and this is one of my new favorite routes in the Moab area having both fun face climbing and one of the most enjoyable finger cracks anywhere. The climb starts with a short section of mellow climbing on features to a horizontal crack, clip a bolt above your head and do a short boulder problem to reach the beginning of the crack. It felt about v4 to me but it might feel a bit harder for shorter folks. Above the boulder problem the climb follows a tight finger crack with plenty of ledges and features to keep it relatively mellow. Climb into a flaring slot which is easier than it first appears due to plenty of holds (tread lightly to preserve these!) The slot ends at a small roof, pull through and exit onto the less-than-vertical wall which is split by an amazing crack which is mostly perfect fingers. The climbing above is kept reasonable by the grace of edges, pockets, pods, crack-constrictions and the zig-zagging nature of the crack; stances abound and there are no desperate gear placements, all of which makes for an engaging but very enjoyable climb.
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