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Manly Bulges 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Ryan Lewis
Page Views: 1,585
Submitted By: Hayden Miller on Apr 20, 2009

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Manly Bulges powers over the right side of the bul...

Description 

Short route with two hard cruxes. It is called 5.13c in the guide, but it has broken twice and is considered by some to be 5.14a. More like a V8 to a V8 in my opinion which adds up to 5.13d. The second boulder problem is a bit height-dependent. My beta involves dynoing off of a left hand undercling with a right hand two finger gaston.

Location 

This is a bit to the right of Black Slabbeth and currently has two hanging draws going up its black bulges.

Protection 

8 draws should be enough.


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By rylew
Dec 3, 2009
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a

Ian gifted me this project in 2000 or 2001 and the fa was done by Ryan Lewis of Denver.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 3, 2009

I tried this a bit and thought it was brick hard. Very small holds on the upper crux. I remember wishing there were a lower bolt to keep the rope out of the way on the lower crux and lessen the sketch factor clipping the first bolt. Good work, Ryan!
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 25, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Sent this yesterday. IMO, this is slightly easier than Green Bonus. I agree that this is sharp as hell, particularly the two-finger dish at the crux bulge, and the bolting could be improved. The crux bolt should probably be moved down & left ~12", and there really needs to be another bolt at the start. Until then, it's possible to scramble up to the ledge and pass a stick clip up to pre-clip. Or climb Totally Blonde and lower down this.

I really think this is a quality route, despite the above detractions. The rock is absolutely stellar, some of the best at Cactus. The moves are cerebral & fun. I tried this once in 2008 and came away with the same conclusions as everyone else: sharp, height-dependent, sandbagged. However, there is another sequence, glaringly obvious once you figure it out, that is not height-dependent, and IMO significantly easier than the beta described above.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Feb 27, 2010

It is funny how a 20-25' choss scramble to a high first bolt undermines the experience.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 27, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

I can add a bolt if nobody objects. I thought about doing it, but I thought I should send it first in its current state. It can be made safe the way it is, but it's kinda ridiculous for a route like this, at Cactus Cliff of all places, to have too few bolts. I lead it ground up my 2nd burn, and it was mildly terrifying making the last few moves to the first bolt. You could definitely fall there, and a fall would definitely put you in the hospital (or worse).
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 27, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Ok, I emailed Ryan Lewis & Ian Spencer-Green, and they both approve the addition of a bolt at the start. If there are any objections, speak up.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 5, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Ben & I were able to get the new bolt in today. Thanks, Ben, for the belay and the use of your drill!