Ice and mixed climbing in this wild river setting provide a very accessible wilderness-like climbing environment. Up to 8 or so routes form somewhat unreliably, and variably, from year to year depending on what you call "in." Routes range about 65 feet in length (+/-).
The grades provided herein are a best-estimate and will only occasionaly come close to the conditions you may find on any given day. Furthermore, the route Lady in Waiting (route #5) has not been climbed by myself and I needed to submit my best estimate of the most frequent conditions (mixed) and based its grade relative to mixed and dry-tool routes found in Sandstone, Casket Quarry and Orient Bay.
North of Little Marais on Highway 61. Look for the River's signage on the bridge. Either take the river north (when passable) or follow the north lip of the canyon while avoiding tresspassing on private property. If following lip, stick to the woods on the north rim until you can hear the Falls. Drop down to edge and walk a bit down river to look for slings on trees on the tops of routes 7 and 8.
A thin pencil touches the rock at about 3 places on its fall from the rock band of the rim of the canyon. Otherwise, it hangs free from the face. Follow it, delicatley, sometimes using edges and ice blobs on the face if needed, to the final rock headwall and pull through to top. If it's fat enough to lead, stop at ice and V-thread down....[more]Browse More Classics in MN