On the right side of the Precipice, just before you encounter the stairs is an obvious open book dihedral. The start is just left of an obvious short roof crack called Small Crack Warning (5.11d). Climb the dihedral (5.10) to its end and belay on the right. Traverse left to a very thin and flared finger crack. Optional belay here. Tricky small pro and a technical crux climbing the crack past a steep swell leads to easier climbing.
Standard rack with RPs, etc
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Jan 7, 2009
This was Jeff Achey ? f/a Fine route.
|By Derek Doucet|
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
A fun 5.10a or b pitch gets things off to a promising start. The second pitch consists of lots of pleasant, easy climbing interrupted by a 15' boulder problem crux. While this section is very nice indeed, the route is not at all sustained, and did not live up to its billing in my opinion. The crux is certainly stout, and modestly spicy as well, but is so out of character with the rest of the route that the overall experience is not especially satisfying. Selfless Bastard is more sustained (though not by much) and only a little easier, and is probably a better route for those interested in South Wall 5.11s. For that matter, High Wire is more sustained than either! Still, Maniacal is a fun outing and certainly worth climbing.