This excellent route climbs a heavily featured slab of high-quality rock for a rope stretcher pitch. The route does unfortunately suffer from seasonal runoff, so many of the larger pockets tend to fill with dirt from time to time.
Begin with a tricky scramble to an exposed, sloping ledge just right of the access tunnel. Scramble up and left behind the sappy pine tree. Head straight up the dark wall, occasionally using the cracks on either side.
The first route right of the access tunnel.
Many bolts, 2 BA.
If you fail to onsight, this route can be your ver...
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 14, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
If anyone cares to, the anchor on this could use some help. It consists of two hangers each with only one screw link on it. This means the links lay parallel to the rock, rather than perpendicular, which twists the rope even if you rappel and pull it. Definitely don't lower through those--your rope will be screwed!
Either one more screw link on each bolt/hanger or, better yet, some stainless steel carabiners.
|By Dave Wachter|
Feb 26, 2008
Agree with Jason - had to hike up and rescue a rope that stuck on the anchors when we tried to pull it. The climb is Fantastic, though. Continuous 10c edges, up a beautiful little nook among trees.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 8, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jason Young and I added screwlinks a screwlink to each chain. Now the rope won't twist when you rappel, but the anchor still could use a total overhaul.
Great route, especially up past the 4th bolt. Felt very stiff for the grade (even by Cochiti standards), but maybe I was tired (or more likely, I'm just not very good). 5th clip was tough for me.
|By Dave Wachter|
Sep 8, 2009
Thanks for the anchor overhaul! Great job! I feel SO much better climbing this route now, knowing that I won't have to risk another epic dealing with a stuck rope!