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|Type: ||Sport, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||Ruedi Büschlen, Gerhard Führer, Jürg von Känel|
|Season: ||Late spring through autumn|
|Submitted By: ||Colin Winter on Dec 26, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: Splitter crack on pitch two of Mangolyto - note al...
A fantastic route, very homogeneous and sustained in difficulty, yet highly varied. The line includes friction slabs, cracks to jam, layback cracks, and face climbing on small, positive holds.
The pitches go at 6a-, 5c+, 6a, 6a, 5c+, 5b, 6a, 5b. Routefinding is easy, just follow the bolts.
The route is in the middle of the wall, and begins on a large friction slab. The first bolt usually has a small cord tied to it.
Descent is by straight-line abseil down the route (2x50m ropes).
Except in(and sometimes even through) the autumn, there is snow at the base of the wall. For all other routes it is generally unproblematic, but for Mangolyto, depending on the conditions, it is not an entirely trivial obstacle. Proper boots (otherwise unnecessary for the approach) can be a big help, and depending on the conditions, one is well advised to gear up before setting out on the snow. On a postive note, the first bolt is much closer!
The route is very well bolted. A couple of small cams / nuts is recommended by the guidebook.
Daniele H on the slabby first pitch of Mangolyto
Steep face climbing on pitch three of Mangolyto
Excellent,moderate climbing on pitch six of Mangol...
The final pitch of Mangolyto