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Worm Dome, Tsef Naeb, and Murray Canyon
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Mangas Coloradas S 
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Mangas Coloradas 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mike Strassman, Paul Linaweaver - 1991
Page Views: 245
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Dec 5, 2012

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Description 

Described in the Kerry guidebook as one of the best dike climbs in the East Stronghold, Mangas Coloradas indeed climbs a dramatic red dike system that forms enormous flakes (and jugs). The climb is fun and wild, but is marred by much easier climbing following an extremely difficult start as well as the dike itself which is hollow in places and rather scary.

Begin the route by climbing up a dead tree that appears to have naturally fallen into position (though it could be climber-engineered). Clip the first bolt and perform a difficult move (5.11). Without this tree, the first 15' of climbing are surely much harder. Expect a long run between the third and fourth bolts (though the climbing is easy), and again between the fourth and fifth. Fixed anchor.

The route is unusual and fun, but I couldn't quite call it great. So two stars - but worth a trip if you have a short day up at Rockfellow.

Mangas Coloradas was an Apache chief and warrior who suffered a somewhat controversial death when he met with US forces to negotiate peace and was promptly detained, tortured, and executed. His body was then mutilated and never returned to the Apache people. He was also Cochise's father-in-law.

Location 

On the north face of the Murray Canyon Wall, this route follows the obvious red dike.

Protection 

7 bolts plus the anchor. A long sling or two for draping over flakes may help.


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