Generally closed from 1Aug-31Oct for lambing, the crag is was closed by the Denize family [(07) 877 8349] for filming of the Hobbit movies in early 2011. While bouldering is not prohibited, the family has expressed serious concerns about frequency of boulderers shouting or using profanity while climbing, which they can hear from their home.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Description
Long, multipitch limestone cliff band and bouldering field in a remote region. This remote area sees few visitors each year. Spectacular moderate bouldering on fluted rock and adventurous multipitch climbing on wide cracks draw most of the visitors, although limited sport climbs exist on both the main faces and the house-sized boulders at the base. Negotiating the base of the cliff can be challenging due to dense vegetation.
Getting There
CLOSED FOR FILMING as of early 2011.
Pio Pio is situated on SH3, 20 km south of Te Kuiti. From Pio Pio turn down Kaka St which issign posted to Waitanguru Falls and the Mangaotaki bush walk (by the BP station). At the end of Kaka St turn left onto Mangaotaki Road and after 8 km you reach the Department of Conservation-administered Mangaotaki Scenic Reserve at the base of the valley. The “Back on the Road” crag is 2 km down the road on your right. The main climbing area is a further 4 km down the road on the left hand side of the valley, the largest of the cliffs in the valley. The main cliff is situated on the Denize family farm, and the farm house is about 1km before the crag. Having gained permission to climb park your car at the farm gate by the large Macrocarpa trees and walk 500m up the hill to the base of the cliff.
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