Classic at the grade. Stick clip first bolt. Start on very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.
Harder for shorter climbers. A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick. A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.
At the lowest point of the triple corners V.
Watch out for hitting the boulder to your left if you botch the 2nd clip.
Photos of Man With a Hueco in His Tights Slideshow
This route is classic, as Ladd said there are options at the bottom, and I choose to leave my hands out of the two obvious Heuco's, however they make great foot holds. At the top it is possible and fun to knee bar before clipping the anchors.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 21, 2007
i found this route to be way easier after learning to handjam... i hate laybacks with a passion...
An awesome short route! Gets easier as you go, so don't stop cranking! The start is very powerful and bouldery, with a few options. The clips arent too hard if you find some good heel hooks and or knee bars.
By rdlennon From: New Hampshire Aug 29, 2009 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
The presence of the block makes this otherwise excellent route a bit contrived. The entire crux basically amounts to a sit start to the real route, since you can stem or step onto the block at any point. The whole thing is fun, but it's weird having to call a part of it 'off'.
I think this route might actually feel more like 10d, especially when you know the moves... there is no way in hell it is as hard as Flyin Hawaiin. Stick clipping the second bolt, which is not a bad idea with that rock below you, makes it considerably easier.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England May 11, 2010 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
10d/11a. It feels to me about the same difficuly as Student Loan and Clusterphobia
By S. Neoh Aug 1, 2010 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Start on the ground and not the raised block; it adds two interesting moves to the climb and raises the overall quality. I second Mark's grade suggestion; just a tiny bit harder than Clusterphobia.
Awesome route! The new guidebook calls it 11a. I would agree, especially if you know how to handjam.
By S. Neoh Aug 9, 2011 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Hand jam? Cool Beta but I think the crux is before any place one can possibly hand jam. But all is well if you liked the route and had a good time on it.
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Aug 13, 2012 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
This would be a fantastic short route, but the first big flake creaked when I pulled on it, which I found thoroughly disconcerting. Definitely harder than Clusterphobia in my opinion, but not two letter grades.
Sent this in 2 tries this weekend - 1 follow, 1 lead. No hand-jamming necessary for me. Very fun climbing, whatever the grade is.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Apr 29, 2013
"no hand jams necessary" makes it sound like it's something to avoid when you can :P thats like saying, didnt need the kneebars or something... i will climb 10' off route to find a hand jam or a kneebar even if its a warm up haha... all jokes aside, Nice Job!!!!!
I believe the guidebook makes note, but this climbs a bit differently for a short folks. I found it required alternate beta in two places before gaining the crack/flake. It's a nice (but tough) puzzle for the vertically challenged.