Man With a Hueco in His Tights 5.11b
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BETA PHOTO: Muel Todzia pulling the crux moves on the right si...
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Description Classic at the grade. Stick clip first bolt. Start on very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors. Harder for shorter climbers. A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick. A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.
Location At the lowest point of the triple corners V.
Protection Watch out for hitting the boulder to your left if you botch the 2nd clip.
BETA PHOTO: Man With a Hueco in His Tights climbs up the large flake left of th...
| BETA PHOTO: The bottom half of Man With a Hueco in His Tights.
| Static reach.
| Jimmy's onsight!!!
| photo by Nicole Hansche...
| jeff in the bouldery start... photo by Nicole han...
| jeff gaining the undercling... photo by nicole han...
| Jonny working onto the flake
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| Comments on Man With a Hueco in His Tights |
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By BrianWinslow From: Concord, NH Aug 21, 2007
| This route is classic, as Ladd said there are options at the bottom, and I choose to leave my hands out of the two obvious Heuco's, however they make great foot holds. At the top it is possible and fun to knee bar before clipping the anchors. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 21, 2007
| i found this route to be way easier after learning to handjam... i hate laybacks with a passion... |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Dec 15, 2008
| Just to get a better idea about this route how many bolts are there? |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 15, 2008
| its like 4-5 bolts... |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 3, 2009
| Here is a video link of Mike Thompson warming up on Loose and Baggy 5.8+ then flashing Man with the Hueco in His tights 5.11b...
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By twellman Jul 19, 2009
| An awesome short route! Gets easier as you go, so don't stop cranking! The start is very powerful and bouldery, with a few options. The clips arent too hard if you find some good heel hooks and or knee bars. |
By rdlennon From: New Hampshire Aug 29, 2009 rating: 5.10d
| The presence of the block makes this otherwise excellent route a bit contrived. The entire crux basically amounts to a sit start to the real route, since you can stem or step onto the block at any point. The whole thing is fun, but it's weird having to call a part of it 'off'. |
By Jake D. From: Northeast May 10, 2010
| who would back step onto the boulder? your 10d rating is off route. if you're going to do that then just start from there and do the 5.8 flake and come back when you can climb harder. |
By twellman May 10, 2010
| I think this route might actually feel more like 10d, especially when you know the moves... there is no way in hell it is as hard as Flyin Hawaiin. Stick clipping the second bolt, which is not a bad idea with that rock below you, makes it considerably easier. |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England May 11, 2010 rating: 5.10d
| 10d/11a. It feels to me about the same difficuly as Student Loan and Clusterphobia |
By S. Neoh Aug 1, 2010 rating: 5.10d
| Start on the ground and not the raised block; it adds two interesting moves to the climb and raises the overall quality. I second Mark's grade suggestion; just a tiny bit harder than Clusterphobia. |
By Eric Engberg Aug 2, 2010
| For us who are challenged by stick clipping - especially when not using a stick but leaning out over the "abyss" - it would be nice to fix the damn spinning hanger. |
By Jake D. From: Northeast Sep 15, 2010
| Eric, Now that I have this route dialed the stick clipping IS the crux ;). if you stand up on the block and clip from there it isn't too bad. ask your son, he'll teach you how to stick clip .11+ |
By Matt Glue From: Albany, NY Aug 9, 2011
| Awesome route! The new guidebook calls it 11a. I would agree, especially if you know how to handjam. |
By S. Neoh Aug 9, 2011 rating: 5.10d
| Hand jam? Cool Beta but I think the crux is before any place one can possibly hand jam. But all is well if you liked the route and had a good time on it. |
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Aug 13, 2012 rating: 5.11a
| This would be a fantastic short route, but the first big flake creaked when I pulled on it, which I found thoroughly disconcerting. Definitely harder than Clusterphobia in my opinion, but not two letter grades. |
By Eric Heiden From: Derry, NH Apr 29, 2013
| Sent this in 2 tries this weekend - 1 follow, 1 lead. No hand-jamming necessary for me. Very fun climbing, whatever the grade is. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Apr 29, 2013
| "no hand jams necessary" makes it sound like it's something to avoid when you can :P thats like saying, didnt need the kneebars or something... i will climb 10' off route to find a hand jam or a kneebar even if its a warm up haha... all jokes aside, Nice Job!!!!! |
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