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Wanker Rail, The S 

Man for the Job 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Cox, Bloom
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: Colin Cox on Nov 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Colin setting up for the proper top out.

Description 

Man for the Job shares the Wanker Rail start, with a 5.10 move before the first bolt. *****If you can't figure out how to get on the Wanker Rail before bailing to the ledge, then Man For the Job allows you to still make it to the top and to an anchor so you can get your draws down. And that's about it.***** After the third bolt, climb up to the good stance and follow the arete for a few moves. Gain a ledge and do a little boulder problem - the crux - to another ledge. Plug in a small cam or two and finish on steep, juggy crack features. This route is a hodgepodge of features separated by slabby ledges that really needed a clean, straight, uncomplicated rope line to connect them and balance out the chaotic nature of the line. Geek out!

Location 

Shares start with Wanker Rail, just left of Stepchild.

Protection 

6 bolts and a .4 and/or .5 camalot for the ending. The last bolt is reachy to clip, but would be useless if placed lower. Really short folks may want to have a pre-hung draw for their ascent, or bring a stiff quick draw with a loose gate.


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